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Q&A > General Tech Advice > What red oxide paint is best? > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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What red oxide paint is best? Reply to topic

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mungus
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Wanting to paint the underside red oxide per factory, but have been advised by a well respected car paint shop down here that no red oxide primer that they stock or know of is really a proper sealer and will eventually allow rusting.

So what do we all do? Just spray red oxide and not use the cars much or not in the wet?
Use red oxide and cover it in 2K satin clear as a sealer?
Or is there a good red oxide paint that is a modern product that seals etc.
Product names, ideas etc appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


Grumpy old git!

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hybrid
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Most of the guys here use interguard.


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mungus
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Thanks I'll check it out.

UPDATED: Looks the bees knees that stuff; International Intergard 269 Red Oxide epoxy pimer (2K).

Only problem now is finding a place to sell me some!


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Fri Mar 04, 2016 4:44 pm; edited 1 time in total

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ozbilt
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Your car is an east coast car, correct? I would guess Metuchen.

If so, red oxide is the wrong colour for the underside, both Dearborn & Metuchen used left over paint slops, so could be anything from a darker grey to a lighter greener grey (even black would do). That is left over enamel that gets baked along with the top coat as it was sprayed before the top colour.

If this car is going to be a driver (& not a concourse car that you never drive), then paint everything inc the springs. They came from the factory with minimal paint on the body shell, especially the inside & things like springs & most underside brackets were bare metal. The early cars have lasted 50 years until now. In 50 years I doubt if they will be allowed on the road, so I do not understand all this constant talk on the net about how to "save" these cars from the elements.

I built Mrsozbilt's Mach back in 92 the same rough way the factory did, been driven in all weather including snow in the USA quite a few times. The body & suspension is still as good as it was in 93 when finished (paint is worse for wear & the engine is worn out, but you get that in high mileage cars).

Intergard 269 primer .......

www.international-pc.c...d-269.aspx


Kerry

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ozbilt
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International Paints are a division of AskoNobel


Kerry

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mungus
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ozbilt wrote
Your car is an east coast car, correct? I would guess Metuchen.

If so, red oxide is the wrong colour for the underside, both Dearborn & Metuchen used left over paint slops, so could be anything from a darker grey to a lighter greener grey (even black would do). That is left over enamel that gets baked along with the top coat as it was sprayed before the top colour.

If this car is going to be a driver (& not a concourse car that you never drive), then paint everything inc the springs. They came from the factory with minimal paint on the body shell, especially the inside & things like springs & most underside brackets were bare metal. The early cars have lasted 50 years until now. In 50 years I doubt if they will be allowed on the road, so I do not understand all this constant talk on the net about how to "save" these cars from the elements.

I built Mrsozbilt's Mach back in 92 the same rough way the factory did, been driven in all weather including snow in the USA quite a few times. The body & suspension is still as good as it was in 93 when finished (paint is worse for wear & the engine is worn out, but you get that in high mileage cars).

Intergard 269 primer .......

www.international-pc.c...d-269.aspx


Aha - good to know. Everyone has been telling me and showing me that it should be red oxide underneath.... Yes its a Metuchen car, March 14th 68' rolled off the line. Funnily enough I bought it in primer and guess what, the PO in NY used grey / green. So more thinking to do.

I have collected some photos of 67/68 undersides, done per concourse in red oxide. But now I know!
Damn it! I was quite looking forward to my nice red oxide underside with tasty black and steel coloured bits here and there.

The International integard 269 is proving hard to find in VIC. Plenty of stockists of International Paints, marine shops etc, just not anyone stocking that one so far. Seems its not a small boat marine product more of an industrial one.
There is an OZ made 2K epoxy red oxide primer that is about. Called Norglass Anti Corrosive Primer. looks very similar.
Not so hard to get that...

I will be painting the springs, but will use a charcoal steel paint to try and mimic the unpainted steel look. Have been searching for factory daubs etc to add the finishing touches underneath. Not concourse by a long way, but if I'm doing somethin I may as well do it to look correct if theres no reason not too. Shes a driver but why not make it look nice if I can, that's my idea anyway.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Fri Mar 04, 2016 5:41 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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I had no issue getting the local chandlers that sells normal international yacht paint getting it in. They had no Idea what it was, but rang the warehouse and it was on the next truck. Anyone who sells Sikkens/Lesanol auto paint well get it as well no trouble. I imagine the Bullit car would have been San jose built in which case it would have been red. So do you do it like the original was, or how it was built.


Last edited by Shaunp on Fri Mar 04, 2016 7:30 pm; edited 1 time in total

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mungus
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Good point, as a Bullitt it should be San Jose red oxide underneath, as both cars were made there. Funnily enough a bloke over on the USA concourse site I found had written a thread on this topic, and stated like Kerry, that the Metuchen 68 cars were not strictly any one colour underneath, however his version was that they either used red oxide or black satin like the engine bay, depending on what was around, with the usual over sprays around the edges. So the opinions vary a little, as one would expect. But certainly all agree that they were never strictly one colour at Metuchen. If they did use some red oxide in NJ then I guess I'm covered both ways (Metuchen or San Jose).

I suspect you're right about the intergard stuff, just ignorant sales people. Funny thing is that exact product isn't listed on the OZ agents website, but obviously it can be bought...


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Fri Mar 04, 2016 7:56 pm; edited 2 times in total

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scott66stang
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My 66 is a San Jose build and has the original dark paint as in the tunnel in this shot after the rest of the grime was cleaned off.



Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
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xpconnor
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If you still want to use intergard I have ordered it from the tullamarine distributor. phone number :03 8336 8411

Smallest amount is 4 litres I think and it also comes in black if you want to go that way.


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mungus
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xpconnor wrote
If you still want to use intergard I have ordered it from the tullamarine distributor. phone number :03 8336 8411

Smallest amount is 4 litres I think and it also comes in black if you want to go that way.


Thanks for that, Tulla is only 25 mins from me.
If I go red oxide I'll call them.

UPDATE:

I'll be going red oxide as I've had a few opinions from those over at the USA concourse site from moderators / MCA judges confirming that's what it was for 1968 at Metuchen, including photos. They think the use of leftovers policy was a Dearborn thing.

I've ordered it, $100 for the 4 + 1 litre set. +$20 shipping.
BTW for other readers, that place has moved to somewhere near Laverton.
Easy as though, over the phone. No dramas.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:02 pm; edited 3 times in total

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mungus
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UPDATE:

I finished degreasing the underside in preparation for replacing the rear floor pans, and found what looks like original red oxide primer with Aqua blue metallic oversprays.

So it seems the MCA judges in the concourse website were right after all!


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 13, 2016 9:44 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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My advice is dont take the old paint off unless yo have to. Its hard to replicate the 100s of paint drips the factory left. I just feathered the damage areas on my car and scotch brited the rest and spray over it.


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mungus
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I hear ya, however I have to replace the rear floor pans and the RHS rear floor extension so they're gone burger.
That plus she's changing to highland green (Bullitt)...

Must admit there are times when I toy with the idea of doing a concours resto. Maybe next time? 69' Boss 429 maybe?
Smile


Grumpy old git!

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xpconnor
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mungus wrote
I hear ya, however I have to replace the rear floor pans and the RHS rear floor extension so they're gone burger.
That plus she's changing to highland green (Bullitt)...

Must admit there are times when I toy with the idea of doing a concours resto. Maybe next time? 69' Boss 429 maybe?
Smile


Depending on how much of the floor you need to replace consider just buying a one piece pan and doing the whole thing. If it is just the rears and an extension then the patch sections might be the way to go. However if it ends up needing a front patch also just do the whole lot and be done with it. I got talked into doing the entire floor in mine and am now glad for the advice. JMO


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