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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Rusty 66 Coupe > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Rayatswan
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Purchased a 66 Coupe a few years back and I have been buying parts in prep. for starting a restomod, this is the car when I unloaded it at home. Looks good from 100 meters but is really pretty rusty.





I had a 69 S code but was unwilling to modify it as it was in great condition so sold it so I could modify a mustang to look and drive the way I wanted.









Last edited by Rayatswan on Sat Jun 26, 2021 8:50 am; edited 1 time in total

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Rayatswan
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Started stripping the car down and found the usual rust, there were no surprises, its exactly as I expected.
Car is a V8 289 with C4 auto, Factory Ac and 4 wheel drum brakes, nothing special so I am not chopping up a valuable classic.









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Rayatswan
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I made a frame for the car to sit on because I will be chopping everything off to repair any rust/replace any panels and spray corrosion protection, I will be using House of Kolor KP2CF 2 part epoxy primer.









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Rayatswan
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Before cutting out the rear frame rails I modified a 9" diff from a F 150, nice strong axle tubes and long enough to be able to cut to the correct length.
I am using Race Products full floating hubs for 31 spline axles, I have also fitted backing plates for Banksia parking brakes and will be getting 4 piston calipers in the future.





I also fitted all the brackets for Bilstein coilover's and Watts link locating arms





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hybrid
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A new build! It's been a while.

Thanks for sharing it with us. Looking forward to following it.


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Rayatswan
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Next I fitted crush tubes and nut plates to the insides of the new frame rails for suspension mounting points.





Next I welded the frame rail cross member to the frame rails and temporarily mounted the suspension and diff so I could check for clearance and to cycle the suspension to make sure there was no binding





Next up I undercoated the frame rails and trunk floor pan ready for installation.







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Rayatswan
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Finally started on the car itself, rear frame rails removed, wheel tubs partially chopped out, rear torque box's removed.





New rails fitted to mounting jig, picture also shows the Watts link frame.





I next removed the rocker panels, one side had a good inner but the other was rusty so that was repaired.



The outer rockers were in fair condition with minimal rust, any found was repaired then inside was sandblasted and painted with corrosion inhibitor













Next I undercoated some convertible inner rockers and welded to the outers





And here they are temporarily fitted to the A and B pillars





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ozbilt
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Nice work and thought process.

I like the build method and thinking of future issues. I like stuff to be "mechanic friendly" like routing exhausts so they don't need to come off to do other jobs (like changing a transmission) and allowing parts to play a role in doing more than one job (like having a roll bar hoop in a hardtop be not only removable but have it's mid mount level with the top of the door pillar to stop the flexing, therefore cracking, of the quarter panel to the roof pillar).


Kerry

To our wives and sweethearts. May they never meet

Last edited by ozbilt on Sat Jun 26, 2021 12:21 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Rayatswan
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Thanks Ozbilt


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Rayatswan
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Trunk pan fitted





Modified Torque box's to suit convertible inner rockers







Top had to be cut down and reshaped as well





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Rayatswan
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Painted the full length floor pans and front frame rails



The right side floor support was too wide for the frame rail so had to be cut and rewelded



Next I fitted nut plates so I could bolt the T56 Magnum gearbox support to the rails





Gearbox support bolted to frame rails after I fitted them to the jig



Front cross member fitted after it was modified due to being shorter than the new rails, this cut is underneath.





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Rayatswan
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Torque box bottoms test fitted then welded







before I removed the cowl and firewall I test fitted the modified shock towers



These shock towers are from a 69 mustang, I have used them because they move the inner pivot for the lower control arm inboard 1 inch which improves the roll center. They have been cut and plated because I am going to use RRS coilovers





They had rust in the bottom too













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Rayatswan
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Removed the cowl panels and firewall



Test fitted the new cowl





Removed the dash



The A pillars were rusty under the top hinge plates so I decided to remove the A pillars







I eventually will be removing part of the windscreen pillar as its rusty inside, this will include removing the 1st third of the drip rails



And that's currently where I am up to as of 26/6/2021. I had an operation on the 17th and wont be able to lift anything for 6 weeks


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Rayatswan
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One other thing I should post is some photos of some of the goodies going into this thing
CHI 3V CNC ported heads







World Products Man O War block, 4.125" bore and I have a Lunati Forged crank 4" stroke





Tremec T56 Magnum 6 speed gearbox, Quicktime bellhousing, Hydraulic clutch, Billet flywheel etc I will get more photos when I eventually unbox everything



Last edited by Rayatswan on Mon Jun 28, 2021 7:45 am; edited 1 time in total

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Dwayne
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I was wondering when you'd come over to this forum. Think your build will certainly fit in nicely here.

Welcome.


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