Mustang Tech

Ask them if they can fill a pallet of 4R70W boxes for me at $350 each

And I found this: http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html#vbsptr A valve body for an AOD with an electric lock out. I think Dan's backed up a fair bit at the moment, so a valve body could take months to be built. That said, I'm looking at ordering one from him so happy to combine shipping wi...

So Nuts has an AOD proposition for me which is interesting.

And I found this: http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html#vbsptr
A valve body for an AOD with an electric lock out.

Now, does anyone know where a converter for an AOD can be bought locally? I am thinking around 2,000 would suit me.

Not sure but I would expect they would be. The bearings are the same. I actually used spindles from a ute which is the long wheelbase and to my Bogan senses I cannot sense the difference in steering performance. I did check with a guy who builds race cars and he thought more Ackerman wouldn't be an ...

Thanks Dwayne & Hybrid. Backs up my research so far.

I think a 4R70W is for me. I like the ability to choose when it goes into 4th, which I gather the AOD won't do regardless of tweaks (Yes?).

Might have to look at buying a bunch from the US and floating them over.

Thanks. All good intel. I was actually thinking of an AOD, as it has higher ratios than the E box. I've always worked on high gearbox ratios with a low diff and that seems to work for me. Maybe @Hybrid can comment on the different ratio driving feel? Mine will be just a driver, maybe scare the ricer...

I have a C4 now which is an early case and leaking. I was going to put in a TKO600 but am thinking now I can't be bothered (anyone want a full 1970 TKO600 gearbox conversion?) I have a 347 to put in it and am not worried about power; as in, what it makes it makes. If it hit 400 I'd be happy. Am I go...

Thanks Nuts. I you-tubed it and found an Aussie showed how to change the selector shaft seal. Looks pretty simple. Also found a post all about it. Seems the KD shaft can be shorter than the selector shaft so the O'ring seats on the 2 flats on the end of the shaft, not the full round shaft. Might be ...

I went to put an aftermarket kickdown cable on as it was missing. I have the shaft coming through the neutral switch but no OEM lever but the kit has a lever. However, I cannot get the kickdown shaft to rotate. One way it has a positive stop and the other it just tightens. It can move in and out sli...

Damn that is a shame.
I always say live for today because tomorrow may be crap.

Hope Mark is ok with his lot and you are coping OK.

Speed doesn't hurt. Sudden stops do.

Shaunp wrote:Cut and 1/8' off the caster bar sleeves.

Already been done by the looks of it, the threads have been cut back. Also spacers in the front bolt of top arms as per your counsel

I went with just reusing them. I put Whiteline poly bushes in them and they were a snug fit.
They have been there for a long time so maybe it was some sort of modification way back.

OK now I have a new issue. The castor rods have what looks like a sleeve in the front chassis brackets where the bushes fit. Without them bushes have a slight slop, although I've not tightened them up. These are a thin speedi sleeve kinda thing, not the larger sleeves that sit over the strut rod and...

I'll let you know in a week or two. I have -0 and -59 here to test