Meanwhile I found that the person asking had a 67 which had a totally different set up and the XY mod wasn’t practical.
So I went to the shed and pulled the one from my 67 bonnet i have stored away to have a closer look.
After a sandblast to remove all the rust and grime I was able to see how it worked. As I also have a 67 that one day may see the road ………?
I thought I may aswell rig something up for mine and help a Fellow Forumite out at the same time. Here is what I came up with. This uses the original 67 lever secondary catch without activating the main catch.
I will put up my 66 mod later.
First of all give it a good clean preferably a sand blast so you can see what is going on and to get a good welding surface.
This is the top view which sits in the recess of the bonnet
Next remove the lever spring and bend the tab back so the lever can be accessed better for welding. The tab can be bent back later if room allows but is not necessary.
Next bend straight this activation lever, this is the one that normally raises the lever above to disengage the main bonnet latch . I found the easiest way was to clamp latch in the vice to avoid spreading and use a screw driver to lever it straight, then vice grips to squash flat against the side.
Next we need a new lever for the cable. Look around your shed I just cut up an old bracket from bunnings for the exercise and have just tacked in for now. There may be parts from the donor car catch you get the cable from.
This one is 30mm long which is the absolute max length you can use to get clearance to the inside of the bonnet with full latch adjustment. I would go for 25mm as a good length., it doesn’t need a lot of effort to pull the cable.
Weld this to the lever just behind that tab that was bent back earlier, obviously further back towards the pivot the better, but you may find it hard to get the welder in there. Again this one is just tacked in one spot for removal later, and is strong enough to work, but you should be able to get few fairly decent tacks around it with a mig.
.
next make the cable fastener, slot/ clamp or what ever you use from your donor. I made mine out of that bracket.
You must leave enough room for the movement of the secondary catch lever next to the cable holder "to the right of the plastic cable surround on my set up"
Put the spring back on and there you have it.
This bonnet cable I used is from a 1990 Celica and is 2.2m long, I think a EB, EF Falcon one should be longer, I cant get to my EF atm as it has another car and scrap metal on it..
The longer the better so it can be threaded through the firewall to a donor lever under the dash and possible threaded through the bonnet side turrets. A wagon or sedan boot release cable should be longer aswell. Later i found the Celica fuel hatch cable was 3.7m long and the boot release was 3m long, these both had the same fittings as the bonnet cable and would be plenty long enough to route any way you like.
