cam, dial in

[123abc]

any one available in a about 2 wks to dial in a cam for me i can find tdc with a wheel and dial gauge just not sure about the degreeing cam thing im in the morayfield area

[Shaunp]

What brand cam and chain set? are the heads off?

[123abc]

cam havnt got it yet picking up with block heads and crank the place i got my work done at said that would be a good cam for my application dynotek
CM318D
Supplier Part No EP-021B
Details FORD 302-351C CAM (STG 4)
DUR@50 224/223 V/LIFT 503/507
basicaly im building a 351 long rod had most of the parts here put my numbers matching in storage
and yes heads off

[Shaunp]

Ive got a magnetic deck bridge you can loan if you want. And piston stops etc, but a piston stop you can make yourself. Get a bit of RHS drill 3 holes in it, one on each end so you can bolt it to the block and one in the middle. weld a nut in the middle with a 3/8 bolt. bolt the thing across the block pack it off with washers so the piston cant hit it. Put your degree wheel on the crank, with a pointer approx TDC doesnt really matter. Wind the engine one side of tdc, say 5mm down the bore. and wind the bolt down to touch the piston, note/mark the degrees on the wheel. wind the engine backward till it touches the stop bolt again mark the wheel. Now exactly halfway between degrees you marked is tdc, mark that and set the the TDC of the piston with this mark. Now dont move the engine, lock it with your piston stop, and move the degree wheel to read TDC on the pointer. That's lesson 1

[Shaunp]

Lesson 2
Once you have exactly found TDC you can dial in the cam. Put dial gauge on the lifter or Valve cap. It must be at in the same line as the lift bore or valve stem so you get no errors. Wind the engine to you max lift on number 1 intake. Now rotate the face of the dial gauge to say 0, wind the engine back so the lift goes down say 100 thou dont need to be exact, you are just taking the slack out of chain. Now wind it forward to 50 thou below max lift, and record the degree on the wheel, now wind it past max lift to exactly 50 thou on the dial gauge and record the degree on the wheel. Add them together and divide by 2. that is the intake centerline that should be on the cam card. so say your measurement was 90 deg and second was 130 = 220/2 = 110 center line

[Shaunp]

By the way Dynotec cams are generally old obsolete Crane grinds copies, they are old but ok

[Ausjacko]

Hey Shaun
If the timing set has no adjustment I have always been curious as to the value of 'degreeing in the cam'. If the timing gear marks line-up, and the gear is attached tot he crank via the key, what is the value of degreeing in the cam but for confirming the timing mark on the timing cover?

Always puzzled me this one
Cheers
jacko

[Shaunp]

I always buy timing sets with multiple key ways. But in real terms if you buy a Comp cams Howards or Lunati they are seldom wrong, just put them in line up the dots. Those dynotec are not an expensive cam, Ive used a couple on basic engines and put them straight in, they worked ok.

[123abc]

got caught out on a crane one last time went dot to dot but had to pull the pump and redo after start up it needed to be advanced a little

[Ausjacko]

right, I thought I must be missing something re the cam

[Pinto-Pete]

right, I thought I must be missing something.

Or a lot...

[123abc]

yes that is why im alittle gun shy this time

[Ausjacko]

PP, the only thing I am missing is her not turning around. You are better than that!