Edz 66 Convertible

[Edz66Vert]

Could it be something as simple as too much advance? I have the timing set at 10 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected and blocked but noticed when I checked it with the diaphragm connected it was showing 40 degrees timing and when I disconnected the vacuum line there was huge hiss of air and the motor stalled? It's connected to the front carby base-plate port which I read is manifold vacuum which is where it's meant to go. I do have a port on the metering block above the throttle blades but I read this was not the one to use, it was only put there to make the motor run more timing and run lean to beat the pollution rules?

Should be on ported vacuum on the front metering block, or just leave it off it adds no power. You dont want extra advance at idle. From vacuum. I run no vac on most performace engines, saves a bit of fuel at cruise thats all

I've disconnected it at the moment and blocked it so I'll how it goes. About to fire it up again.

[Shaunp]

What dissy do you have

[Edz66Vert]

Okay, ready to poor petrol on the outside and set fire to it! Lucky I'm going away for the weekend!

The original Motorcraft dissy with an original Petronix. I do have a brand new Petronix Ignitor III on the shelf. The coil has been changed to an MSD Blaster 3? I'm still thinking it's something to do with timing, I don't think I've suddenly developed a vacuum leak.

Checked timing with a mate, it was at 2 deg retarded on cranking, set it back to 10 advanced, hard to start but cranking better (maybe 80%), just put the newish Bosch back in with no washers.

When it eventually did start it runs like a chaff cutter, sounds like I've fouled all the plugs again and the fanbelt squeals it's head off continuously. It's very tight, I know because it used to give a little squeak when you gunned it even though I tightened it with a lever.

Pulling plugs is about a 2 hour job in and out so it can wait for next week!

[Shaunp]

Petronics has 12v yes, Valves are set ok ? not too tight?

[LeglessOne]

Do you have 12v at the coil? I just changed mine to a blaster 3 and forgot that ford run a resistor in the loom on the run wire so the coil only gets about 7-8v.

Ran like a chaff cutter and couldn't figure out why until the I contact on the starter solenoid welded shut and left 12v on the coil like it does at start up.

Made sure it had 12v on run via a relay - all good.

Did my head in trying to figure it out.

Shane

[Edz66Vert]

Petronics has 12v yes, Valves are set ok ? not too tight?

I imagine the petronix is only getting about 8 volts at crank because the volt gauge in the dash drops to that. I might wire as relay in temporarily and fire the petronix power from the battery.

Not sure about valves, US crate engine but it was dynoed from builder in the US before I got it.

The other thing I just noticed is when I move the key to off from ignition after cranking the motor jumps back. Makes me think that somehow the starter trigger wire is getting power from the ignition after you release the starter and not disengaging? This would explain the struggling to run?

[Edz66Vert]

Do you have 12v at the coil? I just changed mine to a blaster 3 and forgot that ford run a resistor in the loom on the run wire so the coil only gets about 7-8v.

Ran like a chaff cutter and couldn't figure out why until the I contact on the starter solenoid welded shut and left 12v on the coil like it does at start up.

Made sure it had 12v on run via a relay - all good.

Did my head in trying to figure it out.

Shane

I get 12v at the coil with ignition on I've bypassed the Ford pink wire) but Nuts said I need to test with a bulb (between the meter I think to add a load) as well. It's hard to test and diagnose when it won't start and you're trying to do it all by yourself. I might have to make up a jump switch si I can crank it from the front of the car with the ignition on.

BTW Leglessone, the MSD blaster coil is still designed to run with a resisistor, says so on the MSD site. I didn't realise until after I bought it, I'm running it without, might burn out quicker but at least it should be getting better voltage? After I add a relay to the petronix I might put the old MSD coil back in or one of the Bosch ones I have lying around that are new and see what happens.

[Shaunp]

Yeah but those pertronics like 12v

[geoff289]

Even with the original resistor setup it will be getting 12 volts while cranking and it will show 12 volts at the dizzy with the ignition on but engine not running. They drop back to 9 volts or so once its running.

Engine going backwards a few degrees when ignition is cut reinforces the theory that something is wrong with timing in my view.

[ozbilt]

Do you have 12v at the coil? I just changed mine to a blaster 3 and forgot that ford run a resistor in the loom on the run wire so the coil only gets about 7-8v.

Ran like a chaff cutter and couldn't figure out why until the I contact on the starter solenoid welded shut and left 12v on the coil like it does at start up.

Made sure it had 12v on run via a relay - all good.

Did my head in trying to figure it out.

Shane

Congratulations on your first post.

[Nuts]

Ed it's obvious to me that from the issues you are facing that your current drivetrain is totally unsuited to your 65. Lucky for you I am in a position to help. I can remove and dispose of your troublesome drivetrain and install a nice running 289 and c4 that would be a better fit. All for only a small fee. How good is that....

[Shaunp]

do you have the firing order correct

[Edz66Vert]

do you have the firing order correct

Just checked, firing order is correct for 351 windsor.

I'll put in a relay so I definitely get 12v at the coil and petronix on Sunday arvo when I get back. Going up to Sydney for Family stuff and picking up a Unimig ACDC Tig.

Hadn't thought that the engine kicking back when I turn the ignition off may be timing related, problem is I need the motor running properly to check the timing. It does this jumping back with and without the vacuum line connected. I still think I'm getting a backfeed from the ignition to the starter when I stop cranking and it's holding the starter in because it's only running 12 degrees of initial advance?

Nice to get all the input! Except Nuts, no, I'll burn it and claim insurance before I throw a 289 and C4 in!

[Shaunp]

12 degrees is fine. Really I never set them to start them. I just put them in the ball park crank them and turn the dissy till they start and run nice, warm it up them put light on it.

[Edz66Vert]

12 degrees is fine. Really I never set them to start them. I just put them in the ball park crank them and turn the dissy till they start and run nice, warm it up them put light on it.

Wish mine was that easy, been a pig and a headache for a month, driving me mad. Should just start and run, but .............
I'll do the above Sunday and see how I go!