RHD replacement wiper arms??

[donoauto]

Hi guys , went to fit new wiper arms from BLKPNY & my school boy error , new arms have slight bend at end of them to suit LHD assembly instaed of a pivot that I was expecting. Appear to be made of stainless. Can I heat at bend & bend to the opposite angle to suit RHD???? Will I stuff it? Will it discolour?
Trico no longer produce simple "push on" arms. Flexible drive agencies make them but looks like only in a black finish. Could be painted silver but no substitute for brushed stainless.

[ozbilt]

Bend them cold, no need to heat.

I place the end in a vice with soft jaws (pieces of aluminium sheet to stop the jaws marking the Stainless) & gently tap the arm to the opposite shape.

[donoauto]

Cheers , I'll practice on an old arm 1st.

[donoauto]

By the way Kerry , the cracks (in my other project post) that you noticed at my RH rear shock access hole - what causes them?? It does't look like it's a stress area & only thin sheet metal. The stress area obviously appears to be where the top of shock mounts , can't understand why the cracks appear around the removable grommet?

[ozbilt]

It is the movement of that cross member & the floor above. On a more modern car the computer analysis, amount of spot welds & spacing would be way different. Each Mustang was different in the way it was spotted together (up to the operator as to how many welds went in that area) & quite a few (read most) cracked. You will find the crack starts from a spot weld & ran to the grommeted hole, not the other way around. Once the crack was there, the movement would have started the next one that I saw at the end of the hole.

Probably more prevalent in cars that had air shocks installed as this put more torque in an area that was not designed for it, or a car that has spent a lot of time on rough roads (like Australia).

[donoauto]

It is the movement of that cross member & the floor above. On a more modern car the computer analysis, amount of spot welds & spacing would be way different. Each Mustang was different in the way it was spotted together (up to the operator as to how many welds went in that area) & quite a few (read most) cracked. You will find the crack starts from a spot weld & ran to the grommeted hole, not the other way around. Once the crack was there, the movement would have started the next one that I saw at the end of the hole.

Probably more prevalent in cars that had air shocks installed as this put more torque in an area that was not designed for it, or a car that has spent a lot of time on rough roads (like Australia).

Excellent! Just the precise sort of answer I love. Thank you.
When I do the body job next year ( I hope) , these will be welded the entire length for a fix?? I'll be using a pro panel shop & won't be hands on much at all for this part of the resto so I can only hope they'll be doing something like that & maybe more to prevent problem from reoccurring. Is there anything I can suggest to them ( they are great mates of mine so no offence will be taken) as a guideline to prevent further problems?
I'm great with wires, interiors & mechanical but panel work is not my forte!!

[donoauto]

By the way, thanks for the tip Kerry. Just lightly hide-hammered arms into right angle - no heat needed

[blkpny]

Did you do the new arms? all good?

[donoauto]

Yes thanks Stephan , all good. Just need the door lock bezels & filler neck thanks mate

[blkpny]

I'll call you in a couple of minutes....
All packed, ready to go