69 CJ build and other cars

[Shaunp]

Not sure what Woody did to Ralphs engine, It thought he blocked some stuff and ran a pipe to the top.

[69candy]

I run 7lts in mine and marked the dipstick at that point. Holloy jets in the head oil gallery to restrict flow

[MaxPower]

I found the info from where I read it years ago.

They actually swapped the pan, windage tray and dipstick along with the extra oil.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/dipstick.htm



Here's one example of two different dipsticks

[Shaunp]

That's not really a fix though is it.

[Pinto-Pete]

That's not really a fix though is it.

If it was done before release everyone would be none the wiser and this wouldn't be an issue and it obviously works,...

[MaxPower]

Haven't done a great deal on the stang as any spare time that I have had has gone to repairing the exhaust on my truck. It decided to fall apart on me one day and after removing it, it was easy to see why.



So I took this opportunity to swap out the original cast manifolds with a set of headers which took a couple of weeks to arrive from the US for a great price of $297 AUD including post to my door. They came with everything needed to fit them up. They are made by Flowtech which from the paperwork in the box, they appear to be a Holley product.



Pretty straight forward to fit. Had to lift the engine on the right side but in comparison to working on the big block Mustang, this was an absolute pleasure!
Already it sounds and feels like it flows better. Sounds more like a V8 should too.



Instead of refitting the near new, but dirty, Magnaflow stainless exhaust that was fitted to the 69, back onto the 69, I decided to cut it up and use the mufflers on the truck. The welds done by the previous installer had more holes than the old exhaust that I removed from the F100 and there are some small dents and scratches on it also because of shitty fitment.



Cleaned up not too bad



I ordered in some stainless pipe and mandrell bends from ECS which I've purchased from before. They have a good online store and are well priced.



The headers came with the weld on flared ends in 2.5 in. But in their fitting instructions, they state you need to bend the selector arm on the C6 in to clear the pipe. I didn't like this idea so decided to step the pipe around it instead.
I haven't worked with stainless before so took my time cutting and preparing it. I also cut the flare down. Then I used the waste to practice welding the stainless and finding a setting.





Then the real thing





After test fitting it though it was still a tad long and just touching the selector shaft as it went through the gears. Not a problem as this piece fits the other side fine.
Second attempt and I was getting the hang of welding the stainless better.





Test fit and it cleared well.



And this is where I got up to today. Am pretty happy with the result for my first go and it has been more good practice for when it comes time for the 69's turn. Please feel free to give me any feedback. I'm learning as I go and would love to hear any tips or advice.

[Pinto-Pete]

Love ya work Maxi, when your happy with the results I've got a set of extractors for you to make ....

[hybrid]

The welds look good!
Is that TIG or MIG?

I have never done stainless on my TIG either, but I would love to give it a try some day.

[boofhead]

That is nice welding with your TIG. Beautiful.

[MaxPower]

Cheers guys!

Pete, at the rate I seem to work, even at $5 an hour I'd need your car or a small country as payment if I were to make a set of headers. I would love to have a go a set one day though.

Hybrid, it is with my TIG. I was also trying out some Lanthanated 1.6mm Tungstens. They kept a sharp point for a long time compared to when I've been welding mild steel previously with Thoriated so it will be interesting to see what they are like on mild. But it is also hard to know when the stainless is brand new and the mild has all been old and used.
I have to say, the stainless is very clean to work with. It is really nice and a lot of fun.

[Hawko]

I use the Thoriated on Stainless at work all the time. I find stainless is easier/ cleaner to tig weld than mild. Probably because I rarely weld mild steel. however the stainless will pull out of square a lot more.
If you have a second flow meter you could have a go at purge welding. You will go through more gas but if you set it up correctly you will get a weld inside the pipe the same as the outside.

[MaxPower]

however the stainless will pull out of square a lot more.

That's great to know. Thank you!

I don't have the gear to set up a purge though. But I know what you are suggesting. I didn't realise it would create the same weld internally.

Is there any benefit using Lanthanated over Thoriated other than the crap in the Thoriated? I had both there and just thought I'd sharpen a few to try this time.

[Hawko]

I don't know. We only have the Thoriated which we use on stainless and the Zirconiated we use for aluminium at work.

[MaxPower]

Cool. I'll grab myself some Zirconiated ones as I've only used Thoriated on aluminium.

I only got Thoriated with my TIG and from memory they were recommended as an all round tungsten. Also from memory the Lanthanated were much the same Thoriated except less the radioative ingredient.

Thanks for the feedback, Hawko.

[hybrid]

I was given two types of tungsten.. one with a red mark and one with a white mark.
The bag was labelled with which type to use with which metal, but it's worn off and I can't remember what it said.