Suspect67

tim_morrison82 · Post by **tim_morrison82** » Sun Dec 02, 2012 10:43 am

Congrats mate! great to hear you are back on the road!

Just in time for summer too!

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 7:31 pm

Geez I was waaaaayy out with the wheel alignment...
I thought it was OK before.. but now..

If anyone SOR wants a recommendation..
Barry Curnow in Myaree .. 9330 7641..

Now suffering the infamous Grant button pop...

ponyride · Post by **ponyride** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 8:34 pm

Nice work Birchy, good to see you're having some wins. Except for the popping Grant button, they're a PITA.

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:09 pm

Cheers, Rick, its good to finally be able to drive it again...

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:17 pm

Wondering if anyone can help me..
I picked up a couple of these switches
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... ATID=978#1

I'll be using them to trigger relays for Coil,Fuel,Etc.. but Im not sure how to wire the LED correctly..

As you can see, they are DPDT..
each switch has 8 posts..
three per side labelled C, NO and NC. (common, normally open and normally closed)
plus one at each end labled + and -, being for the led ring.
So, from what I can detirmine, I have three options for wiring..

One:
Switched +ve to C, NO to relay.
Jumper NO to +, then - to ground.

Two:
Switched +ve to C, Jumper NO to +, - to relay.. (then to ground)

Three:
Switched +ve to C, NO to relay.
Second +ve to the other C, jumper NO to +, - to Ground.
So one side deals with the relay, other side taking care of LED.

I like two, as it is the easiest and neatest to wire.. but will it work ?

nassi · Post by **nassi** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 11:09 pm

Its going to depend on when you want the LED's to be on.
Do you just want them to glow when the accessory circuit is hot?
Or do you want them to actually illuminate the switch and remain on with the circuit hot?

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 11:21 pm

Illuminated when hot only..
in my head that is what all of the above do.. supplying power to the LED only when the NO circuit is closed, while triggering the relay

Post by **hybrid** » Thu Dec 13, 2012 5:46 am

Option 2 has no switched + to the relay.
Are you expecting the relay to be powered through the LED?

It IS a diode, but not sure the LED would like that amount of current going through it.
I'd be going with option 1 personally.

nassi · Post by **nassi** » Thu Dec 13, 2012 7:50 am

+1 for number 1

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:10 am

hybrid wrote: It IS a diode, but not sure the LED would like that amount of current going through it.
I'd be going with option 1 personally.

Thats what I wasnt sure of... the relay will only be drawing 0.1A.. but no idea what the LED is rated for.. hence probably why it is setup the way it is..

Option 1 was the way I originally thought of doing it.. I only came up with option two in an attempt to reduce the wiring required.. (30% less using option 2)

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:59 pm

The recylced console..
What you see here is leftovers and scraps of previous projects..

Bits of scrap MDF, a rack blanking plate and some UPS mounting brackets..

Before I sent my console to Dono, I took a paper trace of its outline..
I then shortened it and transfered that to MDF.

Draw some lines, Drill some holes..

And play dot to dot with a jigsaw.. (This took approx 50% of the weight out of it)

Rinse and repeat..

Test fit and bend the blanking plate to shape..

Then cover and install..

Have to decide what to do with the ali plate yet, brushed or painted.. but that can wait..
Switches will be wired up at a later date and I have to install the Pwr window switches, but have left room for them..
The bit of botched stiching on the right is doing my head in though.. so it may all come out again...

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 1:36 pm

Finished the battery relocation.. (for now).

From the rear seat

Negative to ground connection.. The washer has had the paint removed underneath it.

+VE goes down the passenger side, under the kick panel, over the heater and down along the rail..
Used Scotts suggestion for the through panel sections

Getting close to battery reading at the starter solenoid..

Later, when I do the complete rewire, the front section will be removed and will go through the firewall to drop straight down onto the starter as Dono suggests

S[_]SPECT · Post by **S[_]SPECT** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 12:13 am

Massive thanks go to one Peter Reeves for restoring my faith..
Since my last update the car has sat neglected again, and I was on the verge of biting the bullet and selling..
A visit to 'Exhausted' and a pair of magnaflows later.. Im now wearing the biggest teenage grin..

Got a little nervous when 5 mins out the car spat the dummy in freeway traffic and died.. turns out some muppet (me) had put the plugs back on .. lets say.. not quite right..

Thanks heaps mate.. I dont care what Scott and nassi say about you, I think you're alright..

Post by **ozbilt** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 5:51 am

S[_]SPECT wrote:Massive thanks go to one Peter Reeves for restoring my faith..
Since my last update the car has sat neglected again, and I was on the verge of biting the bullet and selling..
A visit to 'Exhausted' and a pair of magnaflows later.. Im now wearing the biggest teenage grin..

What this forum is all about ......

Post by **ozbilt** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 5:52 am

S[_]SPECT wrote: Thanks heaps mate.. I dont care what Scott and nassi say about you, I think you're alright..

Again, what this forum is all about ...... :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:

Mustang Tech

Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67

Re: Suspect67