64 and a half

mwizz · Post by **mwizz** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:56 am

Looks like a great project

Post by **ozbilt** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:32 am

Hawko wrote:What is the best thing to do with the seams where the floor panels have been welded in? Should I weld them up? or Paint and seam sealer?

Cheers

Seeing you have it on a rotisserie, I would tap that overlap flush & weld it fully. That will then allow you to give it a light grind & with a small amount of filler, make it undetectable from the underside.

I did that to the RH rear floor of Q as after blasting I felt it was a little thin, so I replaced that section.

If replacing floor "sections" & have the luxury of a rotisserie, then tack weld the floor in from the top, flip the body on it's side & fully weld the bottom. Sealer is then good enough for the top.

Registration authorities like "lap welding" of floors because it is the easiest method to obtain the original strength back in that section.

Hawko · Post by **Hawko** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:29 pm

Finally found a little bit of time to do some work so I thought I would tackle removing the rear shock mount and make a start on stripping back the floor pan.
As it was late on Saturday arvo I didn't like my chances of getting a spot weld removal drill so I ground up a sheet metal drill and drilled out all the spotwelds.

Well at least I thought I had until it still wouldn't budge.
I didn't even consider that there would be more on the inside of it connecting to the inside of the rails. The grinder soon fixed that though.
Now I need to find some more time it install the new one.

Hawko · Post by **Hawko** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 5:53 pm

Thought I'd add a update. I've welded in the new rear shock mount.

and '69 Torque boxes

I also found some spare time at work and knocked myself up a set of balljoint wedges.

What's the best thing to do with the underneath of the car? I have POR 15 to paint it with but not sure if I should leave it with that finish or paint something else over the POR. Any suggestions or opinions?

mikes68 · Post by **mikes68** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 6:34 pm

Hawko wrote:What's the best thing to do with the underneath of the car? I have POR 15 to paint it with but not sure if I should leave it with that finish or paint something else over the POR. Any suggestions or opinions?

Intergard 269. A very cost effective product $70.00 for 4 litres and it is bullet proof stuff. Can get it in red or black. Check out my recent posts on my thread (Mike's 68) and you'll see what it looks like.

Hawko · Post by **Hawko** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:11 am

Are you leaving the Intergard 269 as your final coat on the underside of the floorpan ? Or painting over it with something else?
Cheers

Post by **ozbilt** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:17 am

Hawko wrote:Are you leaving the Intergard 269 as your final coat on the underside of the floorpan ? Or painting over it with something else?
Cheers

You can leave it if you want. Stuff is bullet proof.

That is the finish on Q....

Hawko · Post by **Hawko** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:22 am

I already have the POR15 to go on. So would I still put the Interguard on as well?

Post by **ozbilt** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:55 am

POR for inside pillars & maybe the inside floors. Intergard for outside & in the trunk. Also good primer for the engine bay,

unilec5544 · Post by **unilec5544** » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:24 pm

mikes68 wrote:
Hawko wrote:What's the best thing to do with the underneath of the car? I have POR 15 to paint it with but not sure if I should leave it with that finish or paint something else over the POR. Any suggestions or opinions?
Intergard 269. A very cost effective product $70.00 for 4 litres and it is bullet proof stuff. Can get it in red or black. Check out my recent posts on my thread (Mike's 68) and you'll see what it looks like.

Interested to know where you guys buy this Intergard paint in Perth? Sounds like a good primer for my engine bay.

Cheers, Neil.

mikes68 · Post by **mikes68** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:06 am

unilec5544 wrote:
mikes68 wrote:
Hawko wrote:What's the best thing to do with the underneath of the car? I have POR 15 to paint it with but not sure if I should leave it with that finish or paint something else over the POR. Any suggestions or opinions?
Intergard 269. A very cost effective product $70.00 for 4 litres and it is bullet proof stuff. Can get it in red or black. Check out my recent posts on my thread (Mike's 68) and you'll see what it looks like.
Interested to know where you guys buy this Intergard paint in Perth? Sounds like a good primer for my engine bay.

Cheers, Neil.

Hey Neil, easy peasy that one...

$77.00 (inc)

Akzo Nobel Pty Ltd
27 Success Way Perth,
Henderson Western Australia WA 6166
(08) 9494 7794

unilec5544 · Post by **unilec5544** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:25 pm

Thanks mike, I'll grab some next week once i finish the engine bay.

Hawko, what are the ball joint wedges for?

Hawko · Post by **Hawko** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:55 pm

Shelby drop.
Still have to make the small wedges for the top of the control arm yet.

Post by **hybrid** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:56 pm

When you do the shelby drop, it affects the angle of the ball joint to the point where they can come apart. The wedges help bring the angle back to where it should be.

Hawko · Post by **Hawko** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:32 pm

I went to weld on the extra 69-70 brace for the torque boxes. does the brace go under or over the top of the rail seam? As you can see by the pics it fits alot better over but I assume it is meant to go under.

Mustang Tech

64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half

Re: 64 and a half