65 Steering conversion??

[unilec5544]

we use a dial gauge set against a plate bolted to the hub (actually its a kit from TCP I think). Use your normal ride height as a datum and zero the dial gauge, record the the direction (toe in/out) and amount of deviation on the dial gauge.
I think your best bet though is to use proven combinations from people on here. If you need I can get details of the bloke we use to modify draglinks here in Perth. He has been doing them for many years and looks after the certification as well from memory.
cheers

Thanks Nassi, I would be interested in having a chat with him. Whose TCP?

[nassi]

I chase up his details Monday (if you dont hear, remind me).
TCP - Total Control Products. They make a bump steer kit which we have fitted to the race cars abd also the gauge kit to set it all up.

[unilec5544]

I chase up his details Monday (if you dont hear, remind me).
TCP - Total Control Products. They make a bump steer kit which we have fitted to the race cars abd also the gauge kit to set it all up.

Sounds good, thanks for that.

[unilec5544]

just playing around with the steering bits today and noticed the hump on the face that attaches to the frame. Do I need to fit spacers to get the holes flat to the frame?



Also I have fitted the xy idler arm into the old holes that the original box came out of, can I use these holes? The xf steering box, two of the holes line up with the original mustang idler holes in the frame on the right side?



Cheers, Neil.

[nassi]

Grind/cut the lump off from memory, dont use spacers as there is little enough room for extractors.
From memory (and its poor), that third hole only just misses. Its too close to drill beside so you need to remove the crush tube, weld the hole, redrill and fit a new crush tube. We were just talking about this on Friday.
Call Frank on 0417 884 657 or 9498 2790 between 0730 and 1600. I'm sure he will clear it up.
cheers.

[scott66stang]

Didnt Salva notch out the chassis rail ?
I remember seeing one at his workshop that someone else fitted, where it had a bracket holding it out from the rail, and i think he said that was not a good way to go.

[ozbilt]

+ 1 notch the rail.

[unilec5544]

Grind/cut the lump off from memory, dont use spacers as there is little enough room for extractors.
From memory (and its poor), that third hole only just misses. Its too close to drill beside so you need to remove the crush tube, weld the hole, redrill and fit a new crush tube. We were just talking about this on Friday.
Call Frank on 0417 884 657 or 9498 2790 between 0730 and 1600. I'm sure he will clear it up.
cheers.

Thanks Nassi, I had a word with Frank on thursday or friday, apparently he is away this week till thursday so will give him a ring then and arrange to take all the bits in.

[unilec5544]

Didnt Salva notch out the chassis rail ?
I remember seeing one at his workshop that someone else fitted, where it had a bracket holding it out from the rail, and i think he said that was not a good way to go.

Thanks for that. Sounds like a better way of doing it, notching the frame will be the way to go once i work out the best way to fit the box.

[nassi]

Didnt Salva notch out the chassis rail ?
I remember seeing one at his workshop that someone else fitted, where it had a bracket holding it out from the rail, and i think he said that was not a good way to go.

Yes he did notch the rail, but there was still a peice cut off the steering box. And your right, he was never in favour of spacing the steering box off the rail, for numerouse reasons.

[Shaunp]

You don't use any of the old holes they are not in the correct place, and you don't need to notch the rail for the box either, Just warm it and dent it in at the top. One set of the factory washers from ford, that are used on the box bolts welded to the inside of the rail,that's all it takes. still plenty of room for stock manifolds or pacemakers. No need to cut the box. My Rail is not notched. Australain steering boxes are not a mirror image and the pitman is a different shape, so you cant just reverse stuff. The higher you mount the drag link the worse the bumpsteer will get.

[Shaunp]

My 67 won't be exactly the same, but here are more pictures.

[unilec5544]

thanks for the pics Shaun, very helpful. At this stage I just want to clamp the steering box and idler arm to the frame to get a measurement so that we can work out the length of the new drag link.
Once i have the drag link modified, I will assemble the complete steering, clamp it in position and decide on the best position of the box and idler.

[Shaunp]

Why don't you fit it all up with the stock xy link to get your bench mark. The fact that it is too long just means it has more turns one way then the other. You could perhaps work out your heights, postions etc from there though kind of in the ball park, then you would need to fix the link, to get it perfect. bare in mind the xy tierod location are spaced differently this will effect the pivot point of the inners tierods and bump steer, but you have to start some where.

[albanygt40]

Hi

Any progress on the conversion? I am just about to under take the RHD conversion when my 66 turns up early December.







Cheers
Dave