Instrument Voltage Regulator

[xpconnor]

Well I have been wrong twice.... It was justang. Half way down the page is the write up. Maybe it could go in the tech section.

https://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/v ... t=161.html

[ants]

I have correct canisters here with the push tabs like on a 9v battery. Send me a PM with your address and i'll send you one.

Thanks Nuts, got a jaycar store down the road from work so if my current plan doesn't work I can duck into the store and get get the reg.

[nassi]

It's ordered now so will see how it works out.
Looked at the 7815 when mentioned earlier but when i googled it, it came up as 15V. Did you mean 7805??

Yes sorry mate, 7805 will be much better. My sincere apologies.
Jaycar should also sell the 9volt battery snaps so you could mate up to the printed circuit.

[boofhead]

I thought it was boof who had posted a step by step for making a voltage reg in the original can. Could be wrong as I have been once before...........

I have done so in the past.

[ozbilt]

I thought it was boof who had posted a step by step for making a voltage reg in the original can. Could be wrong as I have been once before...........

I have done so in the past.

What? Been wrong?

[boofhead]

I thought it was boof who had posted a step by step for making a voltage reg in the original can. Could be wrong as I have been once before...........

I have done so in the past.

What? Been wrong?

Yep - that to...... too often.

[hybrid]

Well I have been wrong twice.... It was justang. Half way down the page is the write up. Maybe it could go in the tech section.

https://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/v ... t=161.html

Good idea, I will get on it today.

[hybrid]

Done
http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/p ... id=28.html

I haven't personally done this myself, so let me know if I missed anything.

[Nuts]

Yep, that's all good!

[xpconnor]

Done
http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/p ... id=28.html

I haven't personally done this myself, so let me know if I missed anything.

Brilliant. I think even I will be able to follow that.

[boofhead]

Good work. I use this idea 10 years ago - independently - for a couple of cars and some I did not own. I used a 5v T04 package regulator that was 3 amp rated. I am sure many thought of this idea independently. Always worked well for me.

[ants]

Update....Thanks for all the tips everyone. Been busy with the lead up to Christmas and haven't had a lot of spare time so it's taken this long to get it all fixed and the dash back in.

I traced some of the problem to one of the snap connectors on the printed circuit board where the regulator attaches, it wasn't crimped/riveted to well to the circuit board and was making a poor connection at times.
I took the connectors off and soldered the wires from the electronic regulator (that I had purchased from NPD 18 months ago) directly to the circuit board.
This fixed the intermittent drop out of the gauges but still had the problem where the needles on the fuel, temp & oil gauges would all change by 5-6 mm when I turned on the headlights.
Went to jaycar and got a 7805 regulator as was suggested previously and this fixed the problem with gauge variation when the lights were turned on








The next job was to try and get a bit of accuracy in the fuel gauge, I pulled the sender out and put an ohm meter over it and it didn't have a steady rise and fall as you would expect.
When I overhauled the carby a few months ago it had quite a bit of brown powder type material inside it so I checked the inside of the tank.
Needless to say we now have a new S/S tank and new sender unit.
When I compared the old sender unit to the new one there is a 10 - 15mm difference in the height of the pickup. Didn't have time to modify it and as it's in there at about a 45 degree angle I don't think it will be a big deal.
I put 10 litres of fuel in the tank and then syphoned the fuel out via the fuel line to get the level to the point of running out of fuel (with the new, shorter, pickup in there was about 5 litres left). Then added 10 liters and connected the fuel gauge and the pointer on the gauge was 5mm below the empty line. Pulled the gauge out of the cluster and found two holes on the back of the gauge which had a toothed wheel each. put a small screwdriver in and gave the wheel a little tweak and it bought the needle up a little. I lucked out with the first one, don't know what the other wheel does, possibly sets the high side of the gauge.







It took a few attempts at pulling the gauge out and tweaking it to get the needle where I wanted it but now it reads E with about 10 useable litres left.
While I was at it the oil & temp were always below the line when the key was on and engine off and cold so I adjusted them to be on the first line while I had the dash out.

So, the end result is, when I fill up the fuel gauge goes to full which has never done before, hopefully I've got it right at the bottom end of the scale as well.
The temp gauge runs at the halfway point with my IR thermometer (Bluepoint/Snapon) not a cheapie..reading 185 at base of the thermostat.
And the oil is reading halfway when cold and drops to about a third when hot.

Got it all back together yesterday and did about a 150km drive today and all 3 gauges worked the best they have ever worked.
Hope this might help others in the future.

[boofhead]

Good work.

[nassi]

Nice write up mate.

[cage]

Excellent write up.