Mustang Tech

OK now I have a new issue. The castor rods have what looks like a sleeve in the front chassis brackets where the bushes fit. Without them bushes have a slight slop, although I've not tightened them up.
These are a thin speedi sleeve kinda thing, not the larger sleeves that sit over the strut rod and into the bushes.
I can't seem to see any diagrams that show these sleeves so where would one buy these from?

Can't remember exactly what I did, did it to long ago. All I can tell you is that these are the bush kits that I used.
Cut a little off the tube/sleeve to crush the bush up tighter.
https://www.superpro.com.au/?Itemid=232

I went with just reusing them. I put Whiteline poly bushes in them and they were a snug fit.
They have been there for a long time so maybe it was some sort of modification way back.

Cut and 1/8' off the caster bar sleeves.

Shaunp wrote:Cut and 1/8' off the caster bar sleeves.

Already been done by the looks of it, the threads have been cut back. Also spacers in the front bolt of top arms as per your counsel

Im about to undertake this swap myself, I have a 70 FB with drum brakes upfront Can I ask if XE and XF are the same uprights?

Not sure but I would expect they would be. The bearings are the same.
I actually used spindles from a ute which is the long wheelbase and to my Bogan senses I cannot sense the difference in steering performance. I did check with a guy who builds race cars and he thought more Ackerman wouldn't be an issue and might actually be a benefit. Plenty of chat about not using the long wheelbase spindles, but I either don't know what the issues are or I somehow fixed them. It needs a wheel alignment as it has too much camber and toe but it steers straight and returns to centre well.

Now its done and I have driven it for a while, I am pretty happy with the result. Rides well, sits flat with the King super low coils and has a nice weight to the steering with the shiite Ford power steer.

The Falcon spindles are taller. That height difference allows the top A arm to sit parallel to the road when using lowered springs. That way you get negative camber gain in both directions of suspension travel (droop or bump). Similar to the "Shelby" drop.

The trade off is the arm the tie rod attaches to is different to a Mustang and that promotes bump steer. It can be bent to suit, but requires a professional and Xray to do it correctly.

Edit; I just noticed I said most of this earlier in the thread. Getting old messes with my memory

I got XF steering box, XF idler , a modified and tested drag link. Found some XE stubs.

Is there anyone who can give me measurements or templates for re drilling the mounting holes in the chassis rails for the RHD steering box and idler?

ShaunP may still have the template John Greene used for his conversions.

albanygt40 wrote:I got XF steering box, XF idler , a modified and tested drag link. Found some XE stubs.

Is there anyone who can give me measurements or templates for re drilling the mounting holes in the chassis rails for the RHD steering box and idler?

Clamp the box and idler in place with drag link attached in the reverse position of the originals. Then (with the coil springs removed) run the suspension from droop to bump using a floor jack while having a string line down both sides of the car against the tyres. Keep moving the box and idler up and down until most of the bump steer is negated.

Yeah good idea. Thanks