Pulling my date correct engine down!

[ozbilt]

If I was going to re-sleeve one side of a block, I would compare the cost to doing all 8 cylinders. Reason is you get back to a standard bore, the metallurgy is way better & the engine will run way cooler as you will have even wall thickness on all cylinders.

I am no mechanic, but that is what I have experienced. Shaunp might chip in here...

[tim_morrison82]

8 sleaves is the plan. Its going to be done properly the first time, like the rest of the car. Its just a waiting game till i can afford it.

[JC074]

Hey Tim - do you have a build budget for he old girl?

[Shaunp]

No issue with sleeving it, you need to way up what the over size is already and if you want to go back to standard. If the good side will clean up at 030, you could just do one side if you were short of loot, won't make any differeance to how it runs, and you will never wear it out again in any case. Haven't had a block sleeved for a good while, Most 4.2 jags need sleeves but they are stepped sleeves so they touch on the deck, stops the sleeve coming loose and fixes block cracks. Don't worry about any rust on heads etc, once it's hot tanked and bead blasted it will be fine. One of the guys up here Richard had to fully sleeve his 390 in his 68 GT coupe due to rust, think Chiltons at the Gabba did it, he would know the current cost for sure. Forum name is MERT. I'd guess at $120 a pot. You can also get better sleeves than the cast iron block, such as Chrome bavadium etc, very hard wearing with molly rings. The 3,8 in my S type was fully done with chrome liners.
I've done chevs, fords, holdens where I've just had the odd bore done never had any issues with not doing them all. I'd measure the good side if you can't read the pistons and see what you have to start with. Any good machine shop will know what to do. You may need only sleeve a couple and bore the rest. It will never wear out again.

[tim_morrison82]

They are original bores with original pistons. Its hardly been used, and i am curious to why it was taken out. I read somewhere that the first edition ford built 4v carby had a few issues, and lead to alot of people putting new carbys on. Maybe this guy thought the whole engine was stuffed? Will borrow some calipers and check the bore and also see if i can get some sort of reading on the lip. Won't be able to get a reading where its damaged, as its half way down, but will get some pics when i'm not flat out.

JC, as much as it takes. Is going to be slow going though. Need a driver? I need some spare cash...

[Shaunp]

If it is standard bore, I'd be inclined to just sleeve what's needed and bore the rest to the min needs. Some of the rusty ones may clean up at 30, if is standard, now and just sleeve the real bad ones, Just fix whats broken & it and will be fine. 40" = 1mm close enough, which will clean up a fair bit of damage. your dad reckons it needs 120" ,this is almost an 1/8 of an inch or 3mm that alot of damage in that one bore if that's what it really needs. take the block somewhere get it measured ,a good shop will do it for free, and tell you what it needs.

[tim_morrison82]

ok, just spent a few hours taking pics of everything i had pulled apart in the garage...

Pics shortly!

[tim_morrison82]

a heap of pics! check below

http://s806.photobucket.com/albums/yy34 ... =slideshow

[tim_morrison82]

this is the worst one...

[Shaunp]

Don't know what you are worried about, if it is standard bore it looks like it needs 1 sleeve and bore the rest, may clean up a 020. If the crank is round it may linish., Cam you chuck, timing gear etc you chuck any way. Some hard seats and 351 valves in the heads and your away. No drama.
One question is your car a Cali car?

[ozbilt]

One question is your car a Cali car?

Yes it is. Engine was not in that car though.

[tim_morrison82]

yep, car is a cali car, sorry, i missed that line!

i would have thought that if you were going to sleeve you'd have to do the lot? or is that just if i was going back to original bore?

[JC074]

Id do the lot dude... dont cut corners..it will bite you back someday

[Shaunp]

yep, car is a cali car, sorry, i missed that line!

i would have thought that if you were going to sleeve you'd have to do the lot? or is that just if i was going back to original bore?

Good money after bad I reckon, no need, if it will clean up a 020 or 030. on the rest, just do the one. It's a well seasoned block it will be fine. I've built a blown 383 SBC, that had one bore sleeved due to porosity, it worked fine. In my view fully sleeving a block that was never meant to be sleeved weakens the casting. You bore shit out of it and then press the liners in with an interferance fit. The liner is bigger than the bore by 1thou + 1 thou for very inch of dia of the bore. Don't fix what is not broken & and save $1k. I've done heaps of Jags but they are sleeved from new so you are just boreing out the old sleeve and fitting a new one. They can come loose and leak if you get them real hot, If it were my engine I'd do the min rebore to clean up the good cylinders, and sleeve the bad. Most 302 blocks are safe to 040. The money you save will sort your heads for ULP etc. Chuck the rest, oil pump, timing gear, lifters cam etc.

My question re cali was to along the lines of if it were a cali car it would have smog gear from new most likly. Marti report will state if this is so.

[tim_morrison82]

it was built and sold in cali, the marti says nothing about smog though. but i was pretty sure smog setups were in all cali cars from 64, and the rest of the US in 68. my car was built dec 67 if that changes anything? the engine i bought was early nov 67. it could have been from a car sold outside the us though. only way to tell would be to check the engines stamped partial vin marti using the 1 of the 3 body codes, and cross my fingers it was the correct one.