Tim's 1968 J Code Hardtop

[tim_morrison82]

i spent some time on my carby today as i wasn't completely happy with the completeness and correctness of the restoration i got done on it.

here are the pics i got when i bought the carby as it was before it was sent for restoration:









Here are the frist pics i saw of the 'restored' carby, before it was sent to me:





The restored carby once in my hands:









And Last of all the way it is now:

[ozbilt]

Tim, that carb has been "rebuilt" at best, not "restored". Looks like JB Weld on the shaft & many other bits just buffed or blasted.

[Shaunp]

Tim, nothing has been plated, not a real good job. Anyway just put it on the shelf with the rest of your parts, you don't need it any time soon, worry about it another day. About the best carby restorer for Holley's any where is Hume performance, better then Pony carbs ever were, not sure about autolites though you could ask them. Mate save your money and get it painted or you'll just have a collection of useless parts that your kids will dump when you are old.

[chopmgw]

Looks like JB Weld on the shaft

Out of curiosity, whats a JB weld ?

[ozbilt]

Looks like JB Weld on the shaft

Out of curiosity, whats a JB weld ?

Epoxy type glue, very strong.

[tim_morrison82]

yeah, thats what I suspected. the guy that did it used to work for pony carbs (both owners have passed on). when he got it, it soulded like he was on the rebuilt team.

[ozbilt]

I gave up on Pony Carbs in the US soon after I moved there. Then started shipping all my Holleys to Hume back here in Sydney. Now they are not so good & Sean (BossKraft) can get all types of carbs done & done right the first time.

So when the car is straight & painted & while the engine is being built (as you assemble the body shell), get the carb to Sean & he will get it done for you. Throw the disi in the box as well, tell him what drive train you have & they will spec the disi to suit.

There is a system to building a car & ATM you are arse about.

[jas24zzk]

If you want it done 'locally' give Muzz at B&M Fuel systems a call. (Melbourne)

He is VERY old school, and induction is his primary thing. I send all my local clients to him, an all are extremely happy.
He understands concourse vs function.

This is his webpage
http://www.bandmfuelsystems.com.au/

and his bookface page...

https://www.facebook.com/BmFuelSystems


Despite his years in the industry, he is still passionate about what he does.

[ozbilt]

Despite his years in the industry, he is still passionate about what he does.

Unlike me, I usually CGAF ......

[tim_morrison82]

after being apart for 4 years, and wondering what i have actually accumulated, i have started going back through things, and realising how good some original bits are...

for example... tail light wiring... i thought i would for sure have to find a good one, i found the bag with 'tail light wiring written off it, and carefully unravelled the wiring...











i am pretty sure that all the wires visible in the trunk have a great covering of the original cloth cover. only a very few frayed edges, untill you get to the wheel arch, and down the channel below the door. that bit is frayed quite badly, but its perfect again at the other end where you can see the cloth wrap is looped around at that end. i am pretty happy with rediscovering things like this. when i pulled it apart i wasn't expecting to go the whole hog, so i didn't initially take enough notice of what i was pulling apart. i now appreciate things a lot more.

[ozbilt]

Tim, next time you see Q, have a good look at the details. Most of Q is refurbished (restored in most people's mind) but the wiring is from people that know how to reproduce their stuff. The wiring harnesses from those people, are relatively inexpensive to buy & are correct to the last detail.

Again, save the pennies, get the frame & panels straight, then get it painted (allow at least AU$20K to have it done right). You can then start assembling as you purchase the correct bits, leaving the engine build until last.

[nassi]

Tim, next time you see Q, have a good look at the details. Most of Q is refurbished (restored in most people's mind) but the wiring is from people that know how to reproduce their stuff. The wiring harnesses from those people, are relatively inexpensive to buy & are correct to the last detail.

Again, save the pennies, get the frame & panels straight, then get it painted (allow at least AU$20K to have it done right). You can then start assembling as you purchase the correct bits, leaving the engine build until last.

Sound advice above.
There is plenty of work to do in the mean time if you have the time. Every bit of proof coat and seem sealer needs to be removed before blasting. This is a tedious, time consuming job that you can get on with and save a bit cash. There are more nice jobs like that too.

[Ausjacko]

I'm with Kerry and the others on the order. You can save yourself a lot of coin and grief if you get the order correct. I know the body work is a bugger, especially if like me you can't do it, but it is the best way to go. At least with a painted body you can then refurb or purchase and fit as opposed to purchase, forget, repurchase, locate both parts, kick self and run short of motivation and money.

Do you have your parts listed in excel or something similar? I used this approach and also sorted my bags of parts by location in the car and part number so I could find it easily.

[tim_morrison82]

i started one ages ago for parts needed, but dont know if it still exists...

i will be going back through everything when i tidy up the garage (where alot of things have migrated to), the shed (where most things migrated from), and the house (the only part of the property that is moisture proof).

[tim_morrison82]

Tim, next time you see Q, have a good look at the details. Most of Q is refurbished (restored in most people's mind) but the wiring is from people that know how to reproduce their stuff. The wiring harnesses from those people, are relatively inexpensive to buy & are correct to the last detail.

Again, save the pennies, get the frame & panels straight, then get it painted (allow at least AU$20K to have it done right). You can then start assembling as you purchase the correct bits, leaving the engine build until last.

Sound advice above.
There is plenty of work to do in the mean time if you have the time. Every bit of proof coat and seem sealer needs to be removed before blasting. This is a tedious, time consuming job that you can get on with and save a bit cash. There are more nice jobs like that too.

i have done quite a bit of the seam sealer already, but i need to get myself a rotiserie to get the remaining stuff done (but it won't fit on one till its straight...)

i have picked up some lockable wheel dolleys so i can raise it up a bit further and get under it, but i can't work in the wheel arches with the dolleys as the wheels will need to be on... i borrowed a heat gun to get some off, but the angle is terrible, it needs to be tilted to get it off a little easier, or its miniscule amounts at a time...

i don't disagree with you guys. i made a choice of cutting the double handling on the 2 items above, knowing its not the right time for getting them rebuilt, however when the correct fuel pump became available i wasn't going to let that pass.