A 68 and a Noob

[hybrid]

Is that just a distribution block, or is it a proportioning valve as well?

Prop valves can have the plunger shift and stick in the wrong place, making the light stay on.

Did you bleed the brakes? Do you remember whether you did front or back last?
If that's what's happened, you should be able to open up either the front or rear bleed nipples and press the pedal down, forcing the plunger thingy back to the centre.

I think you would have the person inside press the pedal until the plunger moved enough for the light to go out, then tighten the nipple again.

I remember Kerry mentioning it once before I think. Someone can correct me if I've got the process wrong.

[xpconnor]

I thought you weren't meant to push the pedal while bleeding the brakes as that pushed the plunger over and it stayed there unless you physically moved it back. , but i do have a habit of misinterpreting things written on here. Have to wait for someone else to chime in I think.

[Shaunp]

Sometimes you have to move them manually, but in theroy they will move if you bleed the opersite way, but not always. I normally move them. You can undo the end.

[ozbilt]

Pull the proportioning valve apart (the piece that the switch goes into) & then center the piston inside.

Bleed the brakes by gravity (do not pump the pedal) & it will be fine.

Sometime before you bought the car, it had an issue with the front or rear brakes, the other end still worked fine & that pressure pushed the piston to block off the bad end. If you car was stopping fine, then I would say it was the rear end that was bad & since that time you have been stopping on the front brakes only.

Common issue. Simple fix .....

[chopmgw]

Bit slow in responding here as I had to get my head around a few things. This has opened a new learning chapter for me and a small can of worms.
Firstly, I had the disc brake conversion done by a mechanic as I have no previous experience with brakes and it wasnt something I wanted to find out if I was good at it ..... or not.

Is that just a distribution block, or is it a proportioning valve as well?

From what I can tell its just a distribution block with no adjustment.
Here`s an iphone pic which shows it better.



I understand the piston thing in the block and resetting it etc.
Found a few good diagrams on the web.



But heres where the worms come into it , I noticed there are different blocks for drum or disc set ups.
Should I be running a disc brake block with a proportional valve in it ?
I think I have an inline proportional valve that came with the kit but it was never used.
Was told it was not required by my mechanic.

[ozbilt]

Sorry, my bad, I meant to say "metering block" as the prop valve is different (although some models have the prop valve in them).

The metering valve you have, will work OK, however, you definitely need a proportioning valve, but it can be separate.

The schematic you posted is a good explanation of how it works.

[Shaunp]

Do the back wheels lock first? It depends on what rear cylinders are in it as to if needs a valve, to correct the bias. If you look at old Jags and MGs that had disc brakes back in the dark ages, they did not run a proportioning valve, they just worked out the correct sizes of the slave cylinders to work correctly. Mg's run a single circuit brake system, drum rear disc front with no issue, jags run disc/ disc again with no issue. An Oz Falcon ran 13/16 rear cylinders with disc front not 7/8 like a mustang, this was to help with Bias, GT Falcons with larger drums ran 5/8 in the rear to stop them locking, so did the utes, so they diddn't lock when they were empty. A 67 mustang with factory disc's had a valve but they still tend to pull up on the rear, they really need smaller cylinders, in the back.
You need an adjustable valve with most of the big aftermarket stuff because the kitts are not really matched,they are designed to look cool in your wheel, so the bias front to rear is all over the shop.

[chopmgw]

Do the back wheels lock first?

I suspect Im stopping mainly on the front disc`s.

[xpconnor]

Jack the back wheels up, start her up, give it a bit of throttle then apply the brakes with your left foot. If it doesn't slow down or stop the wheels or put some load on the motor the rear brakes are not working.

In that case you need to re-centre the piston in the distribution block, then once that is done you can either fit a proportioning valve or fit smaller cylinders to the rear drums.
Or at least that is my understanding of what is being said.

[Shaunp]

Centre your block and then gravity bleed the rear.

[xpconnor]

While we are on this topic, are these all in one distribution blocks and proportioning valves any good?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-68-70-73- ... 35c7ae0714

How do they work if you can't adjust the prop valve? Is it reliant on using the original size drum cylinders?

[Shaunp]

While we are on this topic, are these all in one distribution blocks and proportioning valves any good?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-68-70-73- ... 35c7ae0714

How do they work if you can't adjust the prop valve? Is it reliant on using the original size drum cylinders?

thats basically for a standard set up, like I said you can drop the rear cylinder size if required. A mustang with Falcon front brakes and the correct rear cylinders don,t even need one, they stop perfectly. With a falcon master cylinder, like XA-XB you don't even need a distibution block, the warning switch/valve is part of the master and they have 2 outlets for the front brakes, and one for the rear.

[ozbilt]

Shaunp, he is in South Australia, so it has to remain "standard". So the Falcon master will not work, therefor needs a prop valve to be "correct". He would get away with the rear slaves being smaller as they look the same from the outside.

[Shaunp]

Shaunp, he is in South Australia, so it has to remain "standard". So the Falcon master will not work, therefor needs a prop valve to be "correct". He would get away with the rear slaves being smaller as they look the same from the outside.

Yep agreed, that's what will be required, KH Front brakes and stock type booster, master and block etc. Easier on a LHD early car anyway, just buy the full kit. They sometimes need smaller slaves even with the stock valve.

[chopmgw]

Been a busy bee this winter fixing up bits and pieces on the car.
So far have installed some interior lighting.
New oil pressure switch (yay now have oil pressure).
Power steer pump out for a repaint.
Qtr windows mastered.
Installed some wheel arch chrome strips.
New radiator and fixed up a couple of minor oil leaks.

One thing that has been giving me the shits though, were the exhaust manifolds. I had repainted them in the VHT paint ( page 5) but they didn't last 12 months before looking a bit crappy again.



I looked around for options and found this stuff.
Any one tried it ?





Smells like spearmint toothpaste.
I put it on ( with a toothbrush) and it looks the goods but I now need to get some cruise time happening to see how it fairs after awhile .



Also had a go at lowering the front end.
I cut the springs and while Im happy with the look, Ive gone too far as I have some minor rubbing at full lock of the wheel.
I do have a pair of new King KFFL-0 springs Im going to replace them with.