Project closure.

donoauto · Post by **donoauto** » Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:34 am

cage wrote:What about 68 fastbacks, do they count or do you 67 fastback boys even look at them as non-believers?

As long as you get rid of those dinky looking rear side indicators, they are just as full of awesome as '67s

cage · Post by **cage** » Wed Dec 17, 2014 8:13 am

Affirmative.

67Nightmare · Post by **67Nightmare** » Mon Dec 22, 2014 10:07 am

Well guys instead of sealer and high build wound up spending the day fighting gaps. Am I being to critical? The passenger side is dead nuts as you can see in the pics. The driver side as you can see matches the vertical but has that funky look at the top. The fenders are originals as the repros "both sets" that is were no where close to ever lining up. Any wisdom or ideas?

Maybe I'm being too critical about it. I also got the grill dry fit it seems to fit pretty good.

Post by **hybrid** » Mon Dec 22, 2014 10:20 am

The gaps weren't great from the factory, so it takes some work if you want them spot on.

Your gap between fender and plenum looks pretty tight. If you open that up a bit, does it close your door gap at all?

All in all, I don't think they're all that bad, unless you're going for top show car kinda stuff.

xpconnor · Post by **xpconnor** » Mon Dec 22, 2014 10:34 am

What is the gap to the rear quarter panel like? Can you lift the door at the back a bit and then add a bit to the bottom of it so it is even the with the sill.

67Nightmare · Post by **67Nightmare** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 1:24 am

I have the pass side set at 5mm which in theory would leave me at 3mm after all priming and painting is done. But the driver side seems to misshaped where the top of the door meets the fender. The doors are set alittle low in the back because the are empty and I need the work the lines. I will try moving the door around. Ohh the rear door gaps are even with the fronts set at 5mm.

Post by **ozbilt** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 7:33 am

67Nightmare wrote:I have the pass side set at 5mm which in theory would leave me at 3mm after all priming and painting is done. But the driver side seems to misshaped where the top of the door meets the fender. The doors are set alittle low in the back because the are empty and I need the work the lines. I will try moving the door around. Ohh the rear door gaps are even with the fronts set at 5mm.

If you have bare doors (no internals fitted) then have them sitting a little high at the rear (say 1/8"). That way once the windows & locks are fitted, the weight will pull it down.

67Nightmare · Post by **67Nightmare** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 3:07 am

With the white stuff coming down and the temp this low can't really get much done body wise. So I went ahead And pulled the beast out of storage and started the punch list of things needed to complete the motor and get it ready to go into the car. This 428 is 100% new from oil pan throughout to the tri power sitting on top. But I think I want to pull the rv cam and put in a thumper as I always liked a rough idle. But who knows I have a big in/out top loader fully built for this badboy. But am in need of some guidance that doesn't come from family members as they all have their own reservations as to what I should do.

I almost want to pull the complete engine back down and go full roller and stroke it out as far as I can without a having to bore it any further. The local guru says there are a few kits that only require it 30 over. This is my question what do you guys think? Pros and cons? It's got all the fancy stuff there and it's been bored 30 as it was an untouched stocker when we picked it up. The complete rotating assembly is about 2k And the only machine work would be clearances for the stroke.

MaxPower · Post by **MaxPower** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:13 am

Hi Nightmare,

Love the passion in this build mate, it's great to see!

I'm currently building a stroked 428CJ myself. Mine was a virgin bore but had to buy a set of 30 over pistons, that is the smallest you can go, to install a 4.25 stroker crank. If yours is already 30 over, then why not if that is what you want to do.

You're right, about $2k gets you a rotating assembly

http://www.survivalmotorsports.com/FE-Engine-Kits.html

I went with the stronger H-beams which looks like what Barry there prices in most too.

As for cam choice, I still don't know myself. I emailed Lunati last week for a recommendation but haven't had a reply just yet. I plan to go for a hydraulic roller. My car will be a strong street use car. It'll never see a drag strip. It'll also have a T56, 3.91 diff gears and EFI.

boofhead · Post by **boofhead** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 7:46 am

If you were starting with an engine needing a rebuild then indeed I would be suggesting to stroke it out and absolutely install a roller cam (using linked bar lifters). Given it is a new engine then I am more on the side of run it and see how it goes. It just might be perfect as the BB really do not need alot in the way of performance gear to be a lot of fun.

Obviously if your snowed in and looking for something to do in the winter then sure why not - its your car and you know what you want to do. No block prep needed (other than maybe some clearencing for the crank/rods). Nice project to do in a warmed garage. You could come here and enjoy our 35+ C temps we are having here. Beach is good at the moment.

Post by **hybrid** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 8:10 am

I don't like the idea behind the thumper cams personally. They purposely make a grind that sounds lumpy, but really isn't.

My first question is to ask what has been compromised to make this happen. 428's sound great with even a mild cam in them. If you go the stroker, I would go with a cam recommended by your engine guru and stay away from the pretend cam.

soc123_au · Post by **soc123_au** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:31 am

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... de=FEMECHM

I spoke to Barry at Survival at length about cam options when I got my stroker kit from him. The above is what he recommended. It certainly has the sound I was after, should have a better idea on the performance soon.

soc123_au · Post by **soc123_au** » Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:46 am

Also, on your gaps, the guard (fender) to door where it's a bit dicky, the only way to sort that properly would be to run a few welds along the edge of the guard & then file it to shape. It's a bit of a pain in the arse & fiddly, but worth the effort.

MustangMedic · Post by **MustangMedic** » Fri Jan 02, 2015 8:28 pm

What he said.....been discussed before with good outcomes...ask ozbilt.
Cheers,
Ash

Shaunp · Post by **Shaunp** » Fri Jan 02, 2015 8:55 pm

67Nightmare wrote:Well guys instead of sealer and high build wound up spending the day fighting gaps. Am I being to critical? The passenger side is dead nuts as you can see in the pics. The driver side as you can see matches the vertical but has that funky look at the top. The fenders are originals as the repros "both sets" that is were no where close to ever lining up. Any wisdom or ideas?

Maybe I'm being too critical about it. I also got the grill dry fit it seems to fit pretty good.

Where the gaps are wide and you can get the get some welding wire (not mig but oxy) and fuse that to the edges to close up the gap, using Oxy/acetylene

Mustang Tech

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