Hi MaxP
Yep, it sure does. Here is the Master at work installing them:
Thanks to J1 (not sure if he is on here) for the pic.
Don't get me wrong, there is a ciggy paper between the header bolt and the front of the wrap on the tower but 'this thing she no move even when foot is a flat'
Jacko
'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'
Cheers for the pic, Jacko. I can see what you mean.
Here's some pics of the wraps in my 69. Not the best pics, I took them recently when assessing how to make some more space which is why the tape is there. You can see they wrap right around back to the apron and how someone in the past has cut, or hacked is probably a better term, out sections to give a little clearance. Not sure how the stock header bolts fitted without those cutouts, the bolts protruded into that now open space when the hookers were fitted.
"There's 3 ways to do things. The right way, the wrong way, and the Max Power way."
OK, pending any confirmation from the Big Mc (I typed it incorrectly first as Mig Mc - pretty right there), there is a difference in what Kerry did and the wraps on your car. The ones Kerry fabbed do not kick up' where you ones do; Kerry's follow the base of the angled piece on the front of the tower around to the guard. That is, the ones that Kerry fitted would likely run to the top of the first line of three spot welds on your car. AND Kerry welded the top of the wrap whereas yours are spot welded- I take it they must be factory.
I have photos of the cracking and splitting that was present prior to Kerry fitting the wraps- they are worth it.
Mine has the factory wraps, and with manifolds there is a fair bit of room, Well not a lot but ok. I have read you can fit them onto the engine and install the lot in one go if done correctly. I think colasped towers and crook engine mounts have something to do with fitment as well. Hence would like to find a s/h set and try on my current FE. also read? that the edelbrock heads are slightly wider than stock but survival are exactly the same as stock c/jet heads re manifold placement. The mystery's of a big block!!
Have definitely considered cutting some out, Jacko. And then stiffening it as well. I haven't found any cracks yet but who knows what else I will discover once the thick paint comes off. I'm sure I'll find some more surprises, it's been the theme with this car.
Cheers for the link. I'll have a read.
I measured my new Edlebrocks and a set of standard 390 heads to confirm what you mentioned, 69, about the Edelbrocks being slightly wider. I had read that too. I didn't want to use the new heads for dummying up in the engine bay and get them scratched so wanted to know exactly what the difference was. After measuring the head width and height, they are the same. The manifold bolts are also in exactly the same position in the relation to the face on both set of heads. The only difference is the port position. Which you can see here.
"There's 3 ways to do things. The right way, the wrong way, and the Max Power way."
MaxPower wrote:Have definitely considered cutting some out, Jacko. And then stiffening it as well. I haven't found any cracks yet but who knows what else I will discover once the thick paint comes off. I'm sure I'll find some more surprises, it's been the theme with this car.
Cheers for the link. I'll have a read.
I measured my new Edlebrocks and a set of standard 390 heads to confirm what you mentioned, 69, about the Edelbrocks being slightly wider. I had read that too. I didn't want to use the new heads for dummying up in the engine bay and get them scratched so wanted to know exactly what the difference was. After measuring the head width and height, they are the same. The manifold bolts are also in exactly the same position in the relation to the face on both set of heads. The only difference is the port position. Which you can see here.
Well there you go!! Good info. I might look at them then as well as they are a lot cheaper than the survival ones
I brought mine not long ago. Cost me just under $2k landed. But the dollar has dropped 10 cents or so since.
This is where I got them and I just realised they've upped the price $100 each. Which now means they fall into the bracket of having to pay import duties. I managed to dodge that at the time.
I was trying to buy the ones from DSC Motorsports as they have had some work done to them for not much more money. But they would not reply to any contact. Which was a shame as they were good to deal with in the past. They were the ones I got my Blue Thunder intake from.
This was a comment from Barry on head choice in the youtube vid of the motor being dynoed:
The Edelbrock heads are only a touch better than a factory CJ head - and cost 1500 versus around a grand to fix worn out ones - good financial decision.
'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'
69candy wrote:I have been talking to Barry. I actually have a block on the way to him as we speak. He is checking it out for me, and if its all good he will machine it up and install the stroker kit. Just trying to decide wether to fit his heads or put my cj heads on it??
What block are you starting with, and which stroker kit are you going for?
The FElony heads seem a good option. Well priced for what you get. I ended up with Survivals CnCed stage 10 Edelbrocks. The FElony castings were still a few months away at that stage. If I had it to do again from scratch I would have gone for Blue Thunder. The only reason i didnt was I would have had to change the roller rockers & even worse remake the extractors.
In saying all that if I was to start from scratch I probably would have bitten the bullet & gone SOHC. Cost wise in the scheme of things wouldnt have been that much higher. What an engine...
hi steve
the cammer is a totaly different beast
cost wise what you spend on your 390 stroker times it by 3 or 4
just the cost of heads would have built your motor
if i knew how much it was going to cost would have built a normal 427
cheers
barry
soc123_au wrote:
In saying all that if I was to start from scratch I probably would have bitten the bullet & gone SOHC. Cost wise in the scheme of things wouldnt have been that much higher. What an engine...
Are you talking about the famous cammer which was banned from NASCAR cause Chrysler had a big cry as it would have eaten their HEMI's, or so the legend goes. Didn't that engine have the longest timing belt in the history of the world.
Keith Craft are building all aluminium cammers Steve, surely you didn't spend that much on your FE. Would the cammer even fit in a mustang?
yes it fits with a lot of mods like wideing towers 3 inches each side
ect ect so much custom bracket to make it work in a car
soc123_au wrote:
In saying all that if I was to start from scratch I probably would have bitten the bullet & gone SOHC. Cost wise in the scheme of things wouldnt have been that much higher. What an engine...
Are you talking about the famous cammer which was banned from NASCAR cause Chrysler had a big cry as it would have eaten their HEMI's, or so the legend goes. Didn't that engine have the longest timing belt in the history of the world.
Keith Craft are building all aluminium cammers Steve, surely you didn't spend that much on your FE. Would the cammer even fit in a mustang?
yes it fits with a lot of mods like wideing towers 3 inches each side
ect ect so much custom bracket to make it work in a car
The ultimate in car porn though Barry,...... Just cant look away....
I'm Batman...
Crane Operator
Mammoet Australia
Rye Park Wind Farm
