Dems the brakes

Technical Discussion on Pre-1973 Mustangs

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smh00n
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by smh00n »

Thanks Ants, that is getting closer to what the problem may be. The brakes work fine, just very sharp and how you have described it.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by smh00n »

shaun071 wrote:I've still got an XF brake set up gathering dust in the shed and will separate parts if you want. I'm up near Toowoomba so freight may be a killer though.
http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/vi ... =5838.html
Looks like all I need are the calipers so will pass on it thanks.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by shaun071 »

No worries mate. The calipers are easy enough to find. I got mine off eBay $230 recoed and powder coated.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by Borgche »

I had a similar issue rectified with my '73 cortina. It has a collection of mismatched parts for a braking system. HG Monaro PBR double diaphragm booster and master, HQ front calipers on XC falcon discs, rears are later model falcon discs. This issue was rectified by flipping the internal pro portioning valve inside the master upside down. I guess converting it from disc/drum to disc/disc.
It's still far from perfect being a bit spongey compared to a modern car but it does stop you adequately without needing to peel faces off the windscreen as it did before.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by smh00n »

I now have a new repro Bendix booster, and a new repro XB Falcon master cylinder.
The pushrod in the booster is too long; can this LEGALLY be machined down to the correct length? (or if not legally, will it cause issues?) And is that the correct method to make it fit?
Also the master mount holes PCD are too small; is it just a quick run with a reamer to rectify?
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by smh00n »

OK, the saga continues. Replaced the booster and master cylinder. Now have good feel, normal brakes that work like your new daily driver.

However, the rears were locking up (they are PBR 13/16") so I changed them to what I am sure are 20.64mm or .812" cylinders.

Just fitted them today and the rears a still locking up.

All adjusted correctly, handbrake is tight(ish) and the pedal feel is still good. Only issue could be the rhr may need another bleed but it has fluid there.

Hard stops will have the car stopped fast so the front are fine but I get the back trying to over take the front.

The right rear locks up first on mild braking and the lhr follows with some aggression.

I though I read Shaun mention somewhere a 5/8" cylinder but thats like 15mm; is there such a thkng and whats it off if it is the answer?
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by Shaunp »

[quote="smh00n"]OK, the saga continues. Replaced the booster and master cylinder. Now have good feel, normal brakes that work like your new daily driver.

However, the rears were locking up (they are PBR 13/16") so I changed them to what I am sure are 20.64mm or .812" cylinders.

Just fitted them today and the rears a still locking up.

All adjusted correctly, handbrake is tight(ish) and the pedal feel is still good. Only issue could be the rhr may need another bleed but it has fluid there.

Hard stops will have the car stopped fast so the front are fine but I get the back trying to over take the front.

The right rear locks up first on mild braking and the lhr follows with some aggression.

I though I read Shaun mention somewhere a 5/8" cylinder but thats like 15mm; is there such a thkng and whats it off if it is the answer?[/quote]

5/8 ones are from early utes and HO's you cant buy them anymore you have to and them sleeved down or just fit a willwood adjustable proportioning valve
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by smh00n »

Ok, So are 5/8" the answer?

I'd prefer to go wheel cylinders over a valve if possible, and if it's more cost effective.

I have the XF Girlock calipers to go on it when (if) I ever get it registered so want to make sure the fix now is going to work with them too.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by Shaunp »

Valves is cheaper, by a good margin.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by nassi »

smh00n wrote:Ok, So are 5/8" the answer?

I'd prefer to go wheel cylinders over a valve if possible, and if it's more cost effective.

I have the XF Girlock calipers to go on it when (if) I ever get it registered so want to make sure the fix now is going to work with them too.
As Shaun say's, a proportioning valve will be way cheaper. Thats what Ford were using in 1965 and the last pair 5/8 wheel cylinders I saw for sale were $485 ea.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by smh00n »

Ok, valve it is. In NSW are they legal to be used, especially if they are adjustable? Can you lock them off with wire once the balance has been set?
ants
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by ants »

Others may know better than me, but I believe they are legal as long as they are fitted/positioned in a way that can't be fiddled with whilst driving.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by Pinto-Pete »

Hilux's run a nice proportioning valve that bolts to the chassis rail, with an arm that mounts to the diff, uses the vehicles weight transfer to regulate pressure just a thought..
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smh00n
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by smh00n »

Don't take this the wrong way but I don't do Jappers.
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Re: Dems the brakes

Post by nassi »

Pinto-Pete wrote:Hilux's run a nice proportioning valve that bolts to the chassis rail, with an arm that mounts to the diff, uses the vehicles weight transfer to regulate pressure just a thought..
That is very clever. What models Pete?
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