Finally - the Bullitt begins! :-)

[mungus]

Is that not (first photo) a 65/66 rear floor panel?

You may well be right, and would no doubt know more about 66's than I. However it did line up perfectly all around and was sold to me as for a 67/68. In any case I'm not using it! It ain't right bubba!

I saw that Dynacorn use that big stiffening fold in their new 67/68 floor FB shells, and the store was adamant it was for my car when I called to mention it was different to the OEM ones in my car.

How can I tell? Do they fit both?

[boofhead]

The image shows the curved indented area which is for handbrake which I think was only on the 65/66 parts. No issue just a comment. It fits no problem.

Here they are on Patience.

[hybrid]

Definitely looks like the ones I used in my 66.
If you want the car to be able to go back to concourse, it wouldn't be right.
Doesn't matter if you're not using it though ?

[mungus]

Oh well, there ya go. The shop lied, or should I say, they were misinformed?

Anyway the main thing is, as you guys say, its not going in the car! Someone else can have it cheap if they want
Shes all primed and drilled so minimal work to fit. Drop me a PM if you want it.

[Pinto-Pete]

A retailer lying to make a sale,.....well I'll be.

[mungus]

Another rear end system now, one I started last year and I'm finally getting back into today.
The leaf springs were the OEM's. PN; 180EC 7 C7ZA AS
Just as well I pulled them and started to dismantle and check them over, as two of the leafs fell apart in my hands! See the photos below. Still at least it confirmed they were original!

They still had the correct daubs for my car, confirmed by a 68' Metuchen S code expert from the USA concourse forum.
I almost removed the stripes, but some gentle scrubbing with a bit of bath cleaner and there they were!




I wasn't satisfied with the idea of "a couple of types fits all" springs from SD etc, and I wanted an original ride height, (15" wheels and we live on country roads), so after some research I bought a set of Eatons (PN: LS477), that are supposed to be spot on for a 1968 S code FB with the "improved handling" option. The only difference I can see with the Eatons (from OEM) is that the smallest/lowest leaves have squared off ends, not rounded per the factory.
They came finished satin black (see photo), however I am painting them VHT chassis cast iron, and adding the correct daub stripes. Then they will be paired up with a pair of new period correct options in the form of adjustable Koni classic shocks (also allegedly fitted to the Bullitt cars).

Bushing wise I'm running black urethane wherever practical, to maintain the factory look but tighten things up a bit. I'll be greasing em up pretty well, to delay the inevitable squeeks! The shock mounting plates were 50/50. That is one was broken right through and one was good enough to re-use. I've blasted and painted that one in VHT cast iron, and stored it for posterity (its OEM) and have bought a new pair of SD ones which I've painted cast iron (they were bright zinc). Photo of them below.

I haven't yet decided on fitting a set of SD concourse traction bars. Again the Bullitt cars are rumoured to have had them, (after McQueen saw the axle hop in a reversing scene he did early on), and I can see the potentional benefit under heavy acceleration, but we'll see. For road use probably a bit of a w**k. I actually ordered a set from CJ's, but they got back ordered so many times by that I went cold on the idea! All new AMK or SD hardware of course.

[mungus]

So here are the new Eaton springs painted with VHT chassis paint in cast iron. Daubs copied over as best I can.




The shackles are an interesting thing.

Before I found the old OEM ones in a box, I had ordered 2 new Scott Drake V8 dual exhaust shackle kits. Because when I bought the old girl, the rear axle was suspended by some god awful ugly long drag type extension shackles.

However upon comparing them I was a bit disappointed by the SD offerings. The plates themselves are much thinner (i.e. weaker) than OEM (which is very solid looking 1/4" plate US steel) and they have a different pin design, with the pins being one on each plate, so each one clamps from the opposite side, whereas the OEM ones are a'la usual spring shackles I've seen, that is, both pins on one plate and the other plate simply has the expected 2 holes to match. Easier to fit?

Luckily the OEM ones are in very good nick, a quick blast and some more of that VHT chassis iron paint and they'll be good as new. My AMK chassis kit provided new nuts too, so all good really. Just more $ wasted.

But as for the new SD ones, I'm thinking they are for eBay. Not impressed by them. About the only thing that seems right is the colour and basic shape. Anyone else here had experiences with them? Are these new SD kits not for my Mustang? The plate shapes look the same as OEM, just way thinner. And the PN is correct. Very disappointing copies if so, nowhere near OEM strength or quality IMHO.

[xpconnor]

The pins are on opposite sides on the repro ones as it makes them easier to install I believe. I think I remember Oz saying something about the judges not picking up on it in Australia on Foresights? car. Which by the way you should have a look over his build thread when you get the chance. Different year mustang but you will appreciate the level of finish on it.
In regards to the quality of the the Scott drake repro hangers . I used a different brand on mine that I can't remember off the top of my head and they seemed fine. The pins were both on the same side of them fwiw.

[mungus]

The pins are on opposite sides on the repro ones as it makes them easier to install I believe. I think I remember Oz saying something about the judges not picking up on it in Australia on Foresights? car. Which by the way you should have a look over his build thread when you get the chance. Different year mustang but you will appreciate the level of finish on it.
In regards to the quality of the the Scott drake repro hangers . I used a different brand on mine that I can't remember off the top of my head and they seemed fine. The pins were both on the same side of them fwiw.

Yup, Chinese junk IMHO. Its the strength thing that got me, I mean they are like 40% thinner! And that's with god knows what quality of steel. Its really a pity as SD make such nice stuff when they try, but otherwise just so disappointing.

[xpconnor]

This is the build I mentioned.
http://mustangtech.com.au/Forums/viewtopic/t=468.html
A long thread but worth a flick through.

[ozbilt]

I alter every set of rear shackles to that config that comes through my shop.

It is much easier to install the rear springs. They were on the Aussie Falcons back in the day.

I usually keep around 4 or 5 sets in stock for the builds I am doing.

[mungus]

Thanks Kerry, yes I tried them up against the frame last night. It looks like they will indeed make it easier to fit the springs, but I'm not mashed on the quality of the SD kits. Heres a side by side comparison. They are literally half as thick as OEM. How could they even think that was acceptable? I mean SD often claim their stuff is "concours" and the difference is plain as day...

If SD had made theirs 1/4" thick per OEM I'd probably fit them. Otherwise to get that conifiguration on my old ones I'll have to press out and in a pin per set. So from your experience do the pins press out OK? And then press in and hold OK in the plate. I cant see much teeth in the part of the spline thats visible is all. Then again a tiny spot of MIG into a wee hole between the pin and its plate would hold one I suppose...

I think I'll have a go fitting the springs and hangers per standard config first, before I make any decision to mod them.
At least the Whites urethane bushings are slippery, so hopefully they'll aid insertion.

[mungus]

This is the build I mentioned.
http://mustangtech.com.au/Forums/viewtopic/t=468.html
A long thread but worth a flick through.

Thanks I'll have a look.

[mungus]

So back to the rear axle, and those daubs etc I was mentioning. The consensus amongst some US MOC judges that just replied to me, co-incides with what I found as remnants on my diff & yoke. So I've just repeated those. Finally found my crimp hose clamps too, so on went one of them for the vent hose. I think the rear axle is probably ready to fit now.
BTW colours are not true to the paint, the cast iron paint on the yoke is not as dark as it looks here. I've tried editing them for that but all it does is mess up the other colours. Anyway looks nice in the flesh and is at least "correct" in that its cast iron. One mistake I've made is that the yoke shroud should be painted as natural steel, not cast iron as it is here. Small job for one day before I mount the axle. I use a Dulux stainless steel look rattle can for that. Looks great.

Some may think; "who cares, ya not building a concours car anyway". Well I figure if I have to paint it, etc, why not do it as close to correct as I practically can. This is the last time anyone would be able see the remnants of the daubs, (easier to go concours later), and it would have been that way when they made the movie too, so that's all good IMHO.

[nassi]

Nice work and I am sure nobody will question your dedication to factory correct. We all go a different way for whatever reason.
In my case I picked the shitty factory colour my car was produced with simply because I could not make up my mind from all the choices available. The colour is about the only thing true to the cars origins. So different horses for different courses excuse the pun.
People do appreciate the effort made, I used to love seeing that sort of thing when a car went on the hoist.