I'm just starting to read up about correct grounding for my MS2, so please feel free to give me a nudge if I'm heading in the wrong direction.
The MS Relay Board has a single Engine Grounding wire coming out of the relay board (8-10 gauge soldered), plus sensor returns for TPS, MAT and CLT (screwed in).
I've read a lot of different opinions on whether the main ground should go to the motor or neg battery terminal. I'm leaning to the motor (via bulkhead connector) but will this allow noise by having it all sensors and grounds going through the same bulkhead connector?
If it was me, I would run the ground to the battery. Reason is that is where power comes from, not the engine. That being said, I also make sure the engine is grounded to the battery as well via the same sized cable as the + cable off the battery.
I agree. I'm fitting an ICE Ignition and he says it must ground to the battery cable or it will have problems and void warranty. I always thought ground to anywhere on the chassis will do but it seems the battery negative is a much better return.
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66 Convertible Bench Seat AODE 3.5 9"
It's different when you're talking about an ECU though. It needs to have precise grounding and most of the MS world believe the best place to have zero drops/loops is to ground the ECU as close as possible to where your sensors and controls are.
Having said that, many people ground to the battery and have no issues either. Generally speaking, as long as your grounds are good you should be OK. If you find later that your MS gauges are out slightly or are bouncing around, then look at the grounds (or your relay board). All of my MS installs ground to the engine.
Last edited by hybrid on Fri Sep 25, 2020 7:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks guys, yes the proper ECU main grounding is my main concern here.
I can either run a heavier engine ground wire through the main bulkhead fitting (along with the sensor returns), or via a separate busbar on the firewall that's connected to the motor. My main concern with the busbar is causing a common ground path to the chassis and engine block at the same time (am I on the right track here Hybrid?).
I plan to have the non-ECU grounds going to the battery in the trunk.
Last edited by Dwayne on Sat Sep 26, 2020 8:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
I now have a Silverfox SPT-MAC valve body thanks to Eddy.
Hybrid, the install instructions refer to replacing the stock the 2-3 Accumulator, do you remember if this has this already been done on your old trans?
Last edited by Dwayne on Fri Oct 16, 2020 2:54 am, edited 2 times in total.
I don't remember, but it's easy to check and if it hasn't they are very cheap.
With the VB off, have a look in the rear corner of the box. You'll see a metal cap held in by a clip. Remove the clip and the cap.
The original will look something like this:
You want the newer moulded rubber one like this:
I don't remember using the old style in any box I have built.
Just to change the accumulator you shouldn't need those vids, but it won't hurt anyway.
Once you remove the VB that's on it, it should all be very obvious.
Decided to recess an aftermarket BA Facon fuel assembly (Sniper Big Pod) into the tank so the lines will sit below the top of the tank. That let's me still keep the trunk floor flat with the bigger 22g tank. Also keep the SA rego inspectors happy as I can completely seal it off from trunk and cabin.
Just need to clean it all up now and get my mate to finish welding it all in.
Dwayne wrote:Decided to recess an aftermarket BA Facon fuel assembly (Sniper Big Pod) into the tank so the lines will sit below the top of the tank. That let's me still keep the trunk floor flat with the bigger 22g tank. Also keep the SA rego inspectors happy as I can completely seal it off from trunk and cabin.
Just need to clean it all up now and get my mate to finish welding it all in.
Sweet, looks nice, I may go down that path yet as I find the current tank a bit small.
Don't forget to triple check your welds for leaks with compressed air and a spray bottle of water and detergent (bubbles will appear), learnt that from experience, and it's no fun rewelding a tank after you have put fuel in ti as the petrol sits in all the crevices no matter how many time you rinse it. I was told the safest way then was fill it with an inert gas (Argon).
Checkout my car builds - edzv8s.com
66 Convertible Bench Seat AODE 3.5 9"
