I looked at the pictures of how it was meant to locate and tried the bracket and couldn't work out how to fit it so gave up, re-bent it and cut it, works great. The nutserts are lovely, soo easy.
This is the original brackets
This is how they are meant to mount
This is the radiator, I found when I tried to mount them in the above position they sat under the angled bit on the end whereas I wanted them under the straight bit so I modified them.
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Tue Apr 04, 2017 11:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Checkout my car builds - edzv8s.com
66 Convertible Bench Seat AODE 3.5 9"
Nuts wrote:It's a 69 Shifter. I have a correct 65-7 shifter here.
Thanks Daryl, can you bring it over when we play with the gearbox please? And thanks for checking out my steering box, gives me peace of mind to know it's good. Rang Revell Steering and told him I could have been killed and he said sh*t and told me the guy who did the job no longer worked there but he'd rev up the boys anyway. Now to just Loctite the nut on so it's a bit more secure when I reinstall the box.
Checkout my car builds - edzv8s.com
66 Convertible Bench Seat AODE 3.5 9"
Edz66Vert wrote:
I re-used the nut clips from the 67 battery tray to attach the top bracket, now the bolt screws though and holds the bonnet catch into the front apron and then tightens into the bracket, no nut needed (and you can't get a spanner in there anyway).
The hole where you put the J nut normally has a captive nut in there. They were never a nut & bolt.
Agree with the nutserts, been using them for over 40 years (I found them via the aircraft industry while building race cars )
Edz66Vert wrote:
I re-used the nut clips from the 67 battery tray to attach the top bracket, now the bolt screws though and holds the bonnet catch into the front apron and then tightens into the bracket, no nut needed (and you can't get a spanner in there anyway).
The hole where you put the J nut normally has a captive nut in there. They were never a nut & bolt.
Agree with the nutserts, been using them for over 40 years (I found them via the aircraft industry while building race cars )
No captive nuts with my bracket so just used the leftover nut clip, the holes were too big to use nutserts. I used nutserts to re-bolt the under battery tray bracket tonight.
If you need to drill out spotwelds (like I did tonight_ you can drill them first with a 1/8 bit and then drill through halfway with an old 8 mm / 5/16 bit ground up as pictured. Cheaper than buying a spot welding drill.
I refitted the steering box tonight, took it out Sunday night, Daryl checked it and gave it back to me Monday afternoon. cleaned and painted it last night.
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
Checkout my car builds - edzv8s.com
66 Convertible Bench Seat AODE 3.5 9"
Edz66Vert wrote:
I re-used the nut clips from the 67 battery tray to attach the top bracket, now the bolt screws though and holds the bonnet catch into the front apron and then tightens into the bracket, no nut needed (and you can't get a spanner in there anyway).
The hole where you put the J nut normally has a captive nut in there. They were never a nut & bolt.
Agree with the nutserts, been using them for over 40 years (I found them via the aircraft industry while building race cars )
Interesting, I met them in the early eighties but not long after they were banned in the airforce (may have been a local engineering decision), and some time later they were dropped from a race team I had connection with.
I guess it all comes down to the application, but it was enough to make me use them as a last resort only.
)
