Rob's Fastback

[Equus]

Thanks Veight obviously agree

Scott66stang i was going to replace most of /all the passenger side pan.The toeboard on the drivers side as the rust seems localised to that area.
My cowl seems solid- i poured a bucket of water into it No Leaks.
What would have been the likely point of ingress for the water on the drivers side to be localised on the toeboard?

cheers Rob

[ozbilt]

What would have been the likely point of ingress for the water on the drivers side to be localised on the toeboard?

Car kept in a humid area like the East Coast of the USA (carpet underlay never dried out). That would be my first thought. RH floor is usually a heater core leaking, but your damage is more consistent with my first thought.

[Equus]

Thanks Kerry.
Wiring behind cluster has been rectified.

Now to build up the courage to make the first cut in the floor to start the repair!
Is the toeboard patch panel enough to repair the drivers side. i.e does it have enouh metal to take care of the transistion to the floorpan?

For the passenger side, should a normal size front floor pan 22'x 24' or should i get the extended front which is five inches longer into the toeboard area?

thanks

Rob

[ozbilt]

Is the toe board patch panel enough to repair the drivers side. i.e does it have enough metal to take care of the transition to the floorpan?

For the passenger side, should a normal size front floor pan 22'x 24' or should i get the extended front which is five inches longer into the toe board area?

By the look of the pics, get a toe board panel (they are inexpensive here, Mark at Capital Classics has them)

Front floor sections should be enough as long as no more corrosion is evident further back.

Passenger side (RH) I would clean up the floor & if no holes further over than the rail extension, then I would only graft in the section from the rail to the rocker.

Basically doing any rust repair, you cut metal away until it is full thickness metal that has no rust. Then cut the new piece to suit. I look for a rail so I can do the join on top of it, hiding the weld from below. If that is not possible, I look for an area that has lots of shape so the weld causes the least amount of buckling.

If that makes no sense, I will look up my pic base & post some here.

[Equus]

Thanks Kerry, your advice and knowledge is invaluable.
You do make it sound less frightening.
At the moment the only damage i can see is localised to the front floors as per the pictures.
The rear pans are still basically all original white with small spots of rusty discolouration.(Passed the screwdriver test!)

I will try with the Lh toeboard and RH floorpan.
On the RhD side is it worth detaching the existing pan from the rocker or leaving it attached if solid and welding the new pan to the remaining horizontal edge. I hope you understand what i mean.
While i was in the area i was thinking of cutting open the top of the rail so i had access to pound them down as they are quite damaged from incorrect jacking.
I assume i should cut along the top ie through the middle of the spot welds remove the panel. pound the rails flat then reweld the panels back in?

once again appreciate all the help

Rob

[ozbilt]

I am about to do one over the next few days. I will take pics & post them as a guide for you all.

Take the lip of the floor off the inner rocker as the new part has the lip. Drill it first so you can "spot" weld them up along that edge.

Taking the floor off to the inner rail edge is a good idea as it allows you to straighten the rails. No more effort for the floor job & better finish for the car. When straightening the rail, I place a large block of wood on the floor jack & hold it up against the rail from underneath so it acts as a dolly when hammering from above.

[jas24zzk]

......and smack the shit out of it with a mash hammer and brickies bolster.

Get the edges right first before worrying about the dents.

Jas

[Equus]

I am about to do one over the next few days. I will take pics & post them as a guide for you all.

thank you.

.....and smack the shit out of it with a mash hammer and brickies bolster.

Get the edges right first before worrying about the dents. Smile

will definitely take out my frustration on those rails!!

cheers

RP

[Equus]

Hi Guys,
just an update with pics
First cut after marking..



Whole area cut out and frame rail bashed into some semblence of a square tube



Test fitting patch


Welding patch in. Hopefully my welding will improve with more practice. My mistake was welding from the front of the floor which opened up the gap towards the rear of the car , between patch panel and original floor.



thanks for all your help.

Rob

[Equus]

Hi Guys ,
as you can see the passenger side is under control.I am procrastinating over what to do on the drivers side toeboard.


Can i buttweld the new toeboard to the floorpan thereby eliminating the factory overlap.
Or do i cut the front edge of the floorpan- replace the toeboard then reweld the front edge of the floorpan to give me the OEM type overlap? (obviously with new metal)

Sorry for the questions - but i am a mustang and rust virgin .


thanks

Rob

[ozbilt]

Can i buttweld the new toeboard to the floorpan thereby eliminating the factory overlap.
Or do i cut the front edge of the floorpan- replace the toeboard then reweld the front edge of the floorpan to give me the OEM type overlap? (obviously with new metal)

Put it in like original (lap joint). With better sealers & paint it will last forever anyway.

Remember it took 45 years to get to the state it is in at present.

Keep asking questions, that is why this forum is here, other than to put crap on each other....

[Foresight]

Guys I think I found a suspect for the Audi pick attack! :rotfl:

[Equus]

Guys I think I found a suspect for the Audi pick attack! :rotfl:

I knew i would slip up somewhere- there is never the perfect crime

[Equus]

Hi guys,
quick question. I removed the rusted sections of the drivers side toeboard on the weekend.

What is the little 2 inch tab that is within the frame rail(which supports the toeboard.)


thanks

Rob

[cage]

Nice work Rob, rip into it mate.