Mustang Tech

Here's a rundown on the engine:
5.0 Block Bored to 4.030"
Scat Cast Crank 3.4" Stroke & 5.4" Rods.
Speed Pro Forged Pistons. Moly Rings, File Fitted.
Rebalanced.
Trick Flow 51402001 Roller Cam.
Weiand Street Warrior Manifold.
Edelbrock Performer Heads Fitted with Manly Valve Gear, ARP Rocker Studs & Comp Cams Roller Rockers .
Ford Racing Lifters and Manley Pushrods.
ARP Hardware throughout and Felpro gaskets retaining the liquids.
Compression ratio is calculated at 10.2.
Should produce a reliable 300 to 330 hp.
Still have to take a video. Maybe over the weekend as we're heading to a show.

Went to open the hood today and the hood latch went "ker klunk" (that's German for oh shit!) and would not release. Spent 2 hours making a hood latch unlocking tool and fiddling it through the grill to finally get the damn thing unlocked. It's an original and I suppose 50 years is a bit much to expect it to operate as it did in 1967. New one is on the way.

While waiting I will run the wiring for the power steering pump into the cabin and mount an on/off switch on the dash to kill the pump when I need to. It draws a lot of current, around 30amps and the Fitech ECU complains if the engine doesn't fire up immediately. In the future i'll start it then turn the pump on. Thought about adding a timer circuit to switch power on after say 5 seconds but why complicate things. When I built the car my wiring was a simple 11 circuit Ezywire System with an additional 4 circuits. I've since added around another 10 circuits and my wiring diagram is so far out of date. If I have any issues down the track. I might have to start again.

You could use the kit like I used for Cage's car that switches on when it detects an RPM signal.
I think in the tech zone article I also ended up pointing to an LPG switch that does essentially the same thing for 20 or 30 bucks.

hybrid wrote:You could use the kit like I used for Cage's car that switches on when it detects an RPM signal.
I think in the tech zone article I also ended up pointing to an LPG switch that does essentially the same thing for 20 or 30 bucks.

This LPG switch is the one I have on my car, but they are not very common and are a lot dearer now - $57.


There is also a new one out which is around $70 from lpg fitters.


You can also get relays with a built in adjustable timer circuit Peel adjustable lpg relays.

The CP30 looks the go. Ordered on Evilbay $40. More F'n Wiring,Thanks Guys. I've wired it up to a switch for the time being.

Here's a quick vid of Blue on the move. Didn't go hard but you get the idea.
https://youtu.be/t39qkzwCMes

Sounds good

Thanks Oz. I shifted early at 5k. Too many eyes. Sounds awesome at 6k though. Have noticed a load rear end whine after each fast take off that goes away after a few miles. Odd. As everything is new. Had the same noise before the diff and trans change. Need to run it on rollers and have a good listen.

Yeah I think the CP30 is the one I mention in the article, but it's been a while so not 100%.

I was playing with installing an ultrasonic movement detector for my alarm using an NO/NC relay and suddenly thought this would have been a simpler method for cutting off the electric power-steering on startup Nuts. All you need is one of these $5 NO/NC relay and have the starter wire trigger it to cut power to the pump? Or you could take power of the neutral start switch, then the pump wouldn't come on until you were in gear? I should have thought of that before suggesting the Lpg switch, would have been a cheaper option. I have a couple of them lying around but you may as well use the peel switch now you've bought it.

Nuts wrote:Here's a quick vid of Blue on the move. Didn't go hard but you get the idea.
https://youtu.be/t39qkzwCMes

Had to copy the link to IE to get video but sounds and looks sweet, love the shaker!

Installed the Peel CP30 switch to turn the power steering pump on only when the engine starts. Worked a treat, thanks Edd for suggesting it!

Things are a little Electric at the moment around Sydney so thought I'd throw this up.

If we're comparing breakdowns, here's my first maiden run after 700 km. Broken high tensile alternator support bolt because as a new owner I did not recognise the front support bracket was missing.

I see a clear correlation between colour and breakdowns here.