Projext X 1967 Fastback

[rkmiller73]

Kerry,

That is the kit I bought, I wish I would have seen that kit with the mig stud welder adapter/ dent puller. Sure is better than the drill a hole and screw in the dent puller and cheaper than the 400 electric weld stud and puller.

jas,

Yes I am using sheilded gas. I just need to practice back up on this thin stuff. I have been doing a lot of pre-war and jeep stuff that has 14 - 16 guage metal.

Would love to see a video!

[jas24zzk]

What amp mig you using?

[rkmiller73]

Jason,

I am using a Lincoln SP125 plus.

I use a Lincoln arc welder for big stuff 3/16 and thicker.

[jas24zzk]

Ok,
remember with the mig, a lil hotter a lil less wire is better.


Arc? Didn't noah build that? Arc on panel steel...seen it, didn't believe it, didn't like it.

Your lil SP should be good, but i'd find myself running it close to max amps. I have a 210amp and run that around 50% for panel steel...but i like it hot.

My experience with the lincolns is they are great.

Occassionally borrow my mates portable. Takes 6 beefy blokes to put it in the ute. Single cylinder italian made Lombardi driving it. 8 guage rod+ 9 inch and 5 inch grinders (240v) no problem!.....chugg chugg chugg all day.

Arc's aren't something for cars really

[ozbilt]

Arc's aren't something for cars really

We used to arc weld Chrysler rails back in the 60's, only thing that would do the job. 14 & 16 guage metal no problem ....

Great on chassis (frames) as well, still use them on occasion to copy what was done at the factory.

Ryan, if you need a translation of what Jas said above, just holler & we will decipher it for you .......

[rkmiller73]

Translation = yes

The stick welder is used mostly on heavy stuff around the farm - and on car frames occasionally.

My dad loves the oxy-acetylene welder. I like it in some situations, but it warps stuff easily and you have to stop and pound on the metal as it cools to try to limit the welding.

There are times when oxy-acetylene is the best route.

Good for shrinking metal too.

[rkmiller73]

THE FUN BEGAN TODAY

So, got up early this morning - my day off started shiney and new...

Went out to the shop and started to work.

1st: I finished welding a few crappy spot welds on the new floor pan - they let the spot welder get too hot - I bet they didn't have a water cooled spot welder.

2nd: I moved the jig back under the car in great anticipation

3rd: I coaxed and worked the car body and the floor pan multiple times

I picked the front up higher and slide the back bumber brackets over the tail light panel ledge.

The car body was stuck about 1.5 inches from going all the way back.
Then I realized that the tail light panel on the bottom was bent in - a light went on - I remembered that bent rear bumper I took off a couple months ago.

I looked at the tail light panel and sure enough it was bent in down on the bottom edge. I bent it out quite a bit and then hinged the front end of the car up and down a few times and finally it came in some.

The floor pan is still back about 1/4 of an inch from where I think it needs to be. I may have to take out the tail light panel or just bend it some more at the bottom. The car lined up with the jig after some more work up front, but I am not sure about the last 1/4 inch. It is tight at the back of the inner wheel house to trunk floor corner.

I had to call it quits tonight and will study my situation for a few days and hit it this Saturday.

It is not the 90%, but the last 10% that always causes all the trouble.

If it was easy, everyone would be doing it, right?

Here are the pictures:

1st photo is the car coming down onto the floor pan, nice and easy.


The next photo is showing that the car is level from side to side and the rocker panels are level. Each of the stabilizing bars I put in were level. All of these were level before and are level now.


This photo shows the jig points are lining up, I also checked the jig points on the new floor - 62 inch X 62 inch diagonally so it is square. Same as my old floor pan.


This photo shows my inner fender well at the front near the floor pan junction and the 1/4 or so inch gap.



Here is the before shot on the inner fender well to floor pan. You cannot see it very well, but there was a bit of a gap and the spot welder pinched each weld. Then the assembly line workers applied copious amounts of sealant - which was removed during the dipping process.


The last photo is the car on the jig, I did add the cowl jig points at the lower door hinge mount location after this photo and it lined right up. As you will notice I still need to get the front of the floor pan into position a little higher up, but I figured that will wait until I get the floor pan back another 1/4 inch.

[gner8r]

Nice work seems to be coming along nicely

It is not the 90%, but the last 10% that always causes all the trouble.

Your absolutely right about that 10% how many cuss words did u get up to

[ozbilt]

Great work Ryan, we are all ( if I may speak for all here ..... ) "suitably impressed" ......

[Nuts]

Jeez Ryan, you're taking your time! I tought you'd have it all done by now.

[rkmiller73]

Thanks guys, but you are way too kind. I felt like I was fumbling around today trying to figure this out.

I loss count on the cuss words!

I have not slept mutch because I was thinking about it so I have a photo of the tail light panel for you.

The arrows are where there are dents, the small arrow is a bullet dent where the bullet did not go through the car - shot from the front. The top two dents do not seem to be enough to have moved the top line of the tail light panel.

I am probably going to have to undo some of the jig and get the body up to move the floor pan - it was not easy to get everything on the jig.

Another note: some of my gap issues are probably from when I took the old panel out and had to get in between the panels and then I did bend them in a little toward the bottom of the inner fender wells to help make sure the new floor would slide in and not catch.




Before shot of the inner ender panel I have in the previous post. I am adding it to the previous post too for continuity.
It is difficult to tell, but the panels had a small gap between the inner fender well and the floor pan, the spot welder pinched it together and the assembly line workers applied copious amounts of sealant, which was mostly gone from the dipping process.

[ozbilt]

The repoduction back panel fits well & is inexpensive. I would just replace it.

[mikes68]

A bit of spot heating with the oxy / acet and then whack a cold wet rag on it to shrink those tiny dents back into shape and it will look as good as new...

Oh, then a bit of a massage with a hammer to finish it off...

[rkmiller73]

Kerry,

You are right, I am going to replace it, I was keeping it in for reference fit. However since it is not very straight and adding to my problems, I will remove it this week.

Mike:
yes that would work, but it also has a lot of pin holes from rust around the tail light openings that you cannot really see well in this photo.

PS: Mike, can't wait to see your convertible in paint!

[mikes68]

PS: Mike, can't wait to see your convertible in paint!