Installing an AOD in a 66

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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Astro »

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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

Ok, Dan (Silverfox) from the US got back to me, $100 to post his VB but he forgot to mention the price. He said

"You will not be able to find a 35 spline 1pc shaft, they have been obsolete for too long and it was a custom part of course. If you go 1pc shaft, you will have to go 31 spline and upgrade your converter to match. This is the C6 style shaft. I would go with the MAC

If the transmission is good, and has the non lock converter - I would say you are fine to run it...with non lock a standard build will survive 400 rather nicely. If you go 1pc shaft, that is not where you add HP handling, it would be more updated internals and clutches. The 2pc shaft with non lock will survive up to 550 or 600 with the proper internals.

Thank you,
Dan Gilsdorf
Silverfox Performance Transmission LLC
816-365-6215
www dot SilverFoxTrans dot com"

Looks like I can get away with the box I bought if I just add either his VB or the TCI one.

TCI list a 1980-93 Ford AOD Constant Pressure Valve Body 436020 and a 1980-93 Ford AOD Overdrive Jumbo Servo Kit 436003.
Do I need both of these or just the Valve Body? Can the servo be fitted without pulling the box apart?

I found a TCI distributor in Brisbane but he's talking 12 weeks delivery unless I pay for UPS and his prices are dearer than ordering direct from the USA.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

Also found these pics of the 67 Shelby Mod for the shifter, stops you hitting neutral accidently.

Image
Image

Quote: It stiffens the gate and most important it locks out neutral between 2nd and 3rd so you can shift back and forth without hitting or possibly hitting neutral by mistake. Called a Special lockout Shift Quadrant when ordered with your 67 Shelby.
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by hybrid »

I would definitely do the OD servo if you're changing the valve body. It's one of the weak links. In reality though, you're not really going to be changing into OD at full throttle.
Even at the drags with 3.9 gears I didn't use 4th.
It's directly accessible when you remove the VB - you don't have to dismantle anything else.

Can't comment on the off-the-shelf VBs though, but do plenty of research if you're not going Silverfox or Lentech.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

hybrid wrote:I would definitely do the OD servo if you're changing the valve body. It's one of the weak links. In reality though, you're not really going to be changing into OD at full throttle.
Even at the drags with 3.9 gears I didn't use 4th.
It's directly accessible when you remove the VB - you don't have to dismantle anything else.

Can't comment on the off-the-shelf VBs though, but do plenty of research if you're not going Silverfox or Lentech.
I'll definitely change the OD servo as well.

For valve bodies I'm thinking Silverfox first, Lentech 2nd and TCI last. Just waiting for a price from Dan. I like the way the Lentech allows you to add a switch to turn off automatic OD, I think Dan's does too?

Here's a good article I found explaining the different Lentech Valve bodies - Lentech Valve Bodies
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Thu Mar 02, 2017 11:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

Okay, do I go for the SPT-R or SPT-MAC? I want firm shifts (but not uncomfortable at light throttle) and reliability to handle 450 hp - Ft/Lbs. Dan said MAC, will this be uncomfortable - I still want a cruiser most of the time?.

These are Silverfox's comments from his site:

SPT-R (w/OD Lock-out)

The SPT-R takes all the advantages of the SPT-1 Series valve body and adds an overdrive lock-out feature. This is the most versatile valve body in the Silverfox lineup!

The shift pattern is altered so that the user can command each gear separately, and has a 12 volt solenoid for overdrive engagement. No more “1-D-1 Shuffle”!!! This VB can be shifted manually to higher gears while the lower gears maintain fully automatic function controlled with TV pressure. TV adjustment is as simple as hooking up the cable – delicate procedures are not required.

The SPT-R can support 500hp. Installation is simple and comes with the same easy to read instructions and gaskets, and includes the wire harness. A switch kit is not included.

SPT-MAC (constant pressure)

The Silverfox Performance Transmission - Manual Auto Constant valve body is a CONSTANT PRESSURE unit that has both manual and automatic capabilities.

Eliminating TV pressure modulation means no more worrisome TV pressure settings and, more importantly, the pressure will always be there when you need it most. Line pressure rise will be more consistent and quick to react in “off the line WOT situations”. Built off of the SPT-R2 base, with overdrive lockout, the SPT-MAC is an effective street / strip valve body designed strictly for performance applications over 400hp. Utilizing the TV system as a “kick down” style application allows this valve body to maintain its auto functions. If disconnected, the valve body will perform much like a manual valve body, and will not downshift with increased throttle – perfect for that day at the track or dyno!

The SPT-MAC is only available in STAGE 3 or higher applications, and can support up to 800hp. Installation is simple and comes with the same easy to read instructions and gaskets, and includes the wire harness. A switch kit is not included.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by hybrid »

Edz66Vert wrote:Okay, do I go for the SPT-R or SPT-MAC? I want firm shifts (but not uncomfortable at light throttle) and reliability to handle 450 hp - Ft/Lbs. Dan said MAC, will this be uncomfortable - I still want a cruiser most of the time?.

These are Silverfox's comments from his site:

SPT-R (w/OD Lock-out)

The SPT-R takes all the advantages of the SPT-1 Series valve body and adds an overdrive lock-out feature. This is the most versatile valve body in the Silverfox lineup!

The shift pattern is altered so that the user can command each gear separately, and has a 12 volt solenoid for overdrive engagement. No more “1-D-1 Shuffle”!!! This VB can be shifted manually to higher gears while the lower gears maintain fully automatic function controlled with TV pressure. TV adjustment is as simple as hooking up the cable – delicate procedures are not required.

The SPT-R can support 500hp. Installation is simple and comes with the same easy to read instructions and gaskets, and includes the wire harness. A switch kit is not included.

SPT-MAC (constant pressure)

The Silverfox Performance Transmission - Manual Auto Constant valve body is a CONSTANT PRESSURE unit that has both manual and automatic capabilities.

Eliminating TV pressure modulation means no more worrisome TV pressure settings and, more importantly, the pressure will always be there when you need it most. Line pressure rise will be more consistent and quick to react in “off the line WOT situations”. Built off of the SPT-R2 base, with overdrive lockout, the SPT-MAC is an effective street / strip valve body designed strictly for performance applications over 400hp. Utilizing the TV system as a “kick down” style application allows this valve body to maintain its auto functions. If disconnected, the valve body will perform much like a manual valve body, and will not downshift with increased throttle – perfect for that day at the track or dyno!

The SPT-MAC is only available in STAGE 3 or higher applications, and can support up to 800hp. Installation is simple and comes with the same easy to read instructions and gaskets, and includes the wire harness. A switch kit is not included.
Mine is SPT-R.
I have a feeling gbx went for the MAC, but only for the constant pressure.
There's good and bad to constant pressure IMO. The TV cable adjustment is not important any more (good).
But your shifts will always be the same. So if you're cruising, your shifts will be as hard as if you were on the throttle.

I don't think the MAC had the stage 3 minimum when gbx bought his because he didn't want the shifting any harder than mine.

Does his site still list the stages and what they mean?
I remember there was a stage he said was good for towing etc... mine was the stage above that.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

Dan lists his valve bodies in the order below, soft to harder. The only listing I can see for stages seem to be related to the SPT-1. I don't want hard shifts all the time when cruising on light throttle so I think I'll go for the SPT-R and the Billet OD Servo ($115us). Just waiting for a price on the Valve body, post was $100 to Aus.

From Dan's site:
SPT-1
SPT-1CP
SPT-R
SPT-MAC
SPT-MAC-TB
SPT-MVB
SPT-MVB-TB

SPT-1 Series (Now with the WOTS System standard!)

The SPT-1 is the original Silverfox valve body. It is the first step to solving the annoying AOD shift overlap, early shit points, and sloppy or erratic shift firmness levels. The SPT-1 has been a huge success. Every valve body is custom modified using our own parts – no off the shelf kits. Each valve body is modified to increase line pressure and provide full time torque converter charge with constant cooler flow and lubrication. Each unit includes several new or modified spring assemblies and custom separator plate modifications.

These modifications increased wide open throttle and part throttle shift points in ALL gears – with additional custom modifications to help push 2nd gear to a healthy RPM (unlike many other kits or stock applications). Shift overlap and flare is eliminated and shift firmness is tailored to your desire. As a standard baseline, the SPT-1 is adjusted for a 5,800 RPM shift in all gears at wide open throttle, and retains the stock shift pattern.

WOTS System - The newest addition to the valve body allows complete user control of the wide open throttle shift point. Simply drop the pan and turn a screw! This modification is 27 years too late!!!!!! It allows you to customize your own wide open throttle shift point within an 800 RPM variance.

STAGES:
- 0: Slight Improvement over stock shift feel with all of the additional modifications
- 1: Firm light shifts with increasing firmness with throttle (typical stage for most stock/street applications)
- 2: Very firm shifts with possible traction loss (firmest stage suggested for lockup converters on stock shafts)
- 3: Consistently firm shifts through throttle range with traction loss (non-lock converters or hardened shafts)
- 4: Consistently firm shifts through throttle range with traction loss (reserved for NON-lock convertors ONLY)


Let us know some specs and how you plan on using the vehicle, and we will gladly suggest the proper calibration.

The SPT-1 can support applications up to 500hp.

The SPT-1 will bring a whole new life to your car!
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Fri Mar 03, 2017 12:25 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by hybrid »

Ok, yeah mine is SPT-R stage 2
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

hybrid wrote:Ok, yeah mine is SPT-R stage 2
Yes, I think 2 sounds good, don't want hard shifts at light throttle.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by gbx78 »

i went SPT-MAC. Even though it states on the website only comes in Stage 3 min .. you can get it in stage 2 which is what i went for after chatting to Dan. The TV cable is more of a shift adjustment point with the MAC.. i think from memory). Dan is great and very helpful. He doesnt normally take on new clients as hes quite flat out so if you get in (i think he likes us aussies) then go for it. Highly recommend it. I know Lentech are great to and ive spoken to Len about their gear also and he recommended i stick with the AOD..with upgrades. I went Silverfox because of the popularity of the DIY upgrades and the fact that hybrid went that way and i was able to go for a ride to see what its about. i cannot rate it highly enough. seriously. I think if i was going a full gearbox replacement i might consider lentech if the price was right.

The shifts are a little firm at low throttle but i wouldnt say uncomfortable. I enjoy it and doesnt bother me. It definitely performs. Its been a couple years i think now and i still love it. I wish i had upgraded the servo at the same time but wasnt aware (cause i hate the site of trans fluid.. seen it way too many times) but one day ill do it again when i have access to a lift and cbf'd getting it. I do give it a pretty hard time at times and with 8psi boost .. nothing has broken yet.

Hybrid's your man with AOD's

EDIT: this is what Len had to say when i asked about C4's vs AOD and when i asked for a transmission to handle 700-800hp engine (based on a future boosted stroker)

The physics of the C-4's overall size and clutch area won't allow more the
450-500 hp with good long term reliability even with the best components
available in the market. Don't get me wrong there has been individuals who
have put a 1000hp through a c-4 and got it down the track but not only are
they very short lived their efficiency in the 500+ hp range falls off
dramatically.

At your level the AOD even TH400 is the way to go but if you want overdrive
then there really is only one choice and that's the AOD as we have proven
our units reliable and as capable as a th400 to 1200 with good long term
reliability and have even managed up to 1500hp crank hp.

We have found over the years in most cases that when general transmission
builders and even performance shops build units to handle 600 + hp that they
don't have the life span our units have and this is because in the bigger
power ranges every detail we have learned makes a difference.
Last edited by gbx78 on Fri Mar 03, 2017 1:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by gbx78 »

'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

[quote="gbx78] ps. the prices are on his website - http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/silverfox ... icing.html[/quote]

Thanks for that, his menu is weird, when you go to his site, it doesn't show pricing, but that link does? He's been great, answered my email in a couple of hours, I'll definitely go with him. Not sure why the MAC is $180 more for an AOD over an AODE, must be more work to modify?

AOD SPT-MAC $500 (Lentech is $569)
“A+” billet aluminum overdrive servo $115 with any valve body purchase
He quoted me Postage $100

Total: $715US ($934 AUD)

I'll order it as it seems like a very good investment when I'm sticking a 408 Stroker behind a fresh 'standard' AOD with high stall. Even if I kill the gearbox down the track I'll be able to reuse the bits.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by Edz66Vert »

gbx78 wrote:i went SPT-MAC. The shifts are a little firm at low throttle but i wouldnt say uncomfortable. I enjoy it and doesnt bother me. It definitely performs. Its been a couple years i think now and i still love it.
My current C6 has a shift kit and it has firm shifts under mid to heavy throttle but you hardly notice it.

Before I order, does your SPT-MAC kick firmly on light changes or is it just a solid gentle change? I'm wondering how it compares to the SPT-R? The MAC basically deletes any problems from the TV while still giving overdrive lockout? It sounds like the gearbox will last longer with it for the extra $50 and you never really have to worry about the TV cable going out of adjustment again. I have read about guys whose TV arm slipped on the carby/gearbox and killed their gearbox before they realised it so this would be a good safety feature.
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Re: Installing an AOD in a 66

Post by hybrid »

I don't really get how that can happen to be honest. Maybe they were using the standard cable, not the Lokar aftermarket one that everyone uses.
IMO, The issue is not that the cable comes loose, but that people keep driving it when the gearbox is slipping and they burn the clutches.
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