Installing an AOD in a 66

[gbx78]

i went SPT-MAC. The shifts are a little firm at low throttle but i wouldnt say uncomfortable. I enjoy it and doesnt bother me. It definitely performs. Its been a couple years i think now and i still love it.

My current C6 has a shift kit and it has firm shifts under mid to heavy throttle but you hardly notice it.

Before I order, does your SPT-MAC kick firmly on light changes or is it just a solid gentle change? I'm wondering how it compares to the SPT-R? The MAC basically deletes any problems from the TV while still giving overdrive lockout? It sounds like the gearbox will last longer with it for the extra $50 and you never really have to worry about the TV cable going out of adjustment again. I have read about guys whose TV arm slipped on the carby/gearbox and killed their gearbox before they realised it so this would be a good safety feature.

A firm kick but not back breaking or jolting. Maybe before you invest you should try them out if they its a concern. If you're in sydney im also happy to show you.

And i agree with what hyrbid is implying .. lokar cabling is the way to go. Many different ones for different applications. Never had a problem except for the return spring design at the gearbox for the TV cable is a bit useless at times..so put your own spring to pull it back to ground 0.

I haventread the entire thread but if your not worried about interior looking standard. Just get a BM shifter for the AOD. It will solve all the things you mentioned..linkage and the D - N mod you refer to. Better than stuffing around with it all. And you can install the bits and pieces while the pan is off for the vB upgrade

[Edz66Vert]

Drove Nuts's blue 67 today with an AOD and 325 hp 5 litre - one word - NICE!!!!!!!!!!

It was lovely to drive a car that had modern feeling brakes, good performance, 4 speed auto that handled well. Thanks Nuts, and lovely sound with headers and 2.5 in dual system. I'll be doing something similar to my brakes. when the time comes

I ordered Dan's SPT-R stage 2 valve body and OD, he says will be done in the next 2 to 3 weeks so now I just have to sit and wait. In the meantime I have a big block radiator to fit so that will keep me busy chopping metal and rotating the battery and relocating some relays.

I'll use the standard shifter because Nuts has one in his and it was nice to use.

[Nuts]

Great to catch up with you Ed. You've got a cool ride also. Anyone who sells two Holdons to buy a Mustang is a great bloke!!

[hybrid]

I think for what you're using your car for, that VB will work nicely.
You'll need to work out where you're going to run your lockout switch.

Since I'm running a B&M, I installed a round push on/push off button in the plastic shifter surround.

[Edz66Vert]

I think for what you're using your car for, that VB will work nicely.
You'll need to work out where you're going to run your lockout switch.

Since I'm running a B&M, I installed a round push on/push off button in the plastic shifter surround.

yes, I'll have to think about that, somewhere handy? I'm going to run the standard shifter like Nuts.

[GRIFF]

Edz looks like its all F'nG with your AOD project. similar to Hybrid i got an SPTR from Dan and A-servo for my 65 while i was over there Jan'16.
its been well over a year and a half that i started the rebuild and finally got the motor in last week. now for the AOD! i too will be using the stock shifter because i have original full console, so Nuts what changes did you make for yours? that shelby mod to the shift gate looks the goods too.
and... anyone recommend a trans mob in sydney to split the standard TQ for cleanout etc?

[Nuts]

No mods Griff as 1 is 1, 2 is 2&3, D is 4. Simples! Just use one of these as the lever ratio is different to a C4/C6.

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/E ... s-l225.jpg

[lukep6470]

The B&M comes with a compatible lever. Simples!!

[GRIFF]

beauty thats what ive got in my parts bin (somewhere)!
forgot about that didnt i seeing as i bought it yonks ago, now i gotta find all the other bits ive put in a "safe place" dammit. thanks Nuts
i was also advised by my local AOD guru at Engadine that i dont have to run the oil lines thru the rad but only a cooler.
Edz what BB radiator did u buy? ive ditched my bling polished Alu for a more traditional 24" copper 3 core with Mondeo twin fans that fit it to the mm. i trimmed the support panel opening appropriately, made up some lower mounts so it locates easily and yet to decide if will use top clamp or bolt to SP.

[Edz66Vert]

So how do you really p*ss your boss off at work? Have a motor delivered when you are not there to receive it! Bummer, they were going to deliver it Monday, I told IPEC to ring me 30 minutes before, meet me at the front and I would help them find the back of the college. Tuesday I'm out all day at Moderation day and there was 180 English teachers at the College and my motor turned up unannounced at the front of the college and the guy wanted to bring it in on a pallet jack through all the visiting teachers - the boss goes wtf? I even rang IPEC on Tuesday to send a reminder message to the truck driver! Not happy Jan, I'm laying low for a couple of days and might have to buy the boss and BSM a six pack of imported beer each! The BSM has been whinging a bit lately about all my car parts that keep turning up at the front office - wait till the carby, manifold and headers turn up next week! Ouch, maybe a case each? Oh well, at least Sal will be happy (my 66)!

[Edz66Vert]

quote "lukep6470 The B&M comes with a compatible lever. Simples!!"

Not keen on B&M anymore, lots of people have problem with them, read lot's of negative feedback by purchasers on the Summit site after they bought one. I think their standards have dropped, probably made in China now?

I'm going with the standard shifter at this stage for the sleeper look. If I was to replace it I'd go with a none cable replacement, lots of positive feedback on the more expensive Lokar's because they have a linkage rather than a cable. Lot's of my club members have used all the others and the Lokar is the only one they love - Lokar

[Edz66Vert]

beauty thats what ive got in my parts bin (somewhere)!
forgot about that didnt i seeing as i bought it yonks ago, now i gotta find all the other bits ive put in a "safe place" dammit. thanks Nuts
i was also advised by my local AOD guru at Engadine that i dont have to run the oil lines thru the rad but only a cooler.
Edz what BB radiator did u buy? ive ditched my bling polished Alu for a more traditional 24" copper 3 core with Mondeo twin fans that fit it to the mm. i trimmed the support panel opening appropriately, made up some lower mounts so it locates easily and yet to decide if will use top clamp or bolt to SP.

I talked to 2 trans experts and researched heaps on the net. You only need to run through the radiator first if you live in the snow and the radiator tube is renowned for splitting under pressure and putting coolant in your gearbox and tranny oil in your radiator, neither is good!

I bought a 300 mm x 300 x 19 mm cooler from Summit (biggest i think I can fit) and bought a 24 in 2 core Aluminium from Harry in Sydney. He said it was more efficient than the 3 row copper and all my research supported and modern cars use them. Just need to make sure you have no stray voltage to eat the aluminium. My Rad guy said he'd only seen stray voltage problems twice in 28 years and both were caused by mixing coolants. You can check with a meter from the fluid in the radiator to the negative terminal or engine block - anything more than 0.030 v is too much. You can add an earth strap as rubber mounted radiators may have a problem but the jury is still out on this. Some say no earth, others say need an earth. However, all your earth connections need to be clean to stop it. Then the cast iron that comes through from the block can cause problems as well, so fit a good filter in the top radiator hose and clean it regularly.

I was also told the correct way to reverse flush is remove the heater hose near the thermostat and backwash through that after turning the heater on, otherwise you force all the crap into the heater.

This is good info - Checking for stray earths

[Edz66Vert]

I'm running the top $330 Spal, but I will need to make a shroud for it once I've worked out my clearances so it sucks through the whole radiator.

[Edz66Vert]

i went SPT-MAC. The shifts are a little firm at low throttle but i wouldnt say uncomfortable. I enjoy it and doesnt bother me. It definitely performs. Its been a couple years i think now and i still love it.

My current C6 has a shift kit and it has firm shifts under mid to heavy throttle but you hardly notice it.

Before I order, does your SPT-MAC kick firmly on light changes or is it just a solid gentle change? I'm wondering how it compares to the SPT-R? The MAC basically deletes any problems from the TV while still giving overdrive lockout? It sounds like the gearbox will last longer with it for the extra $50 and you never really have to worry about the TV cable going out of adjustment again. I have read about guys whose TV arm slipped on the carby/gearbox and killed their gearbox before they realised it so this would be a good safety feature.

A firm kick but not back breaking or jolting. Maybe before you invest you should try them out if they its a concern. If you're in sydney im also happy to show you.

And i agree with what hyrbid is implying .. lokar cabling is the way to go. Many different ones for different applications. Never had a problem except for the return spring design at the gearbox for the TV cable is a bit useless at times..so put your own spring to pull it back to ground 0.

I haventread the entire thread but if your not worried about interior looking standard. Just get a BM shifter for the AOD. It will solve all the things you mentioned..linkage and the D - N mod you refer to. Better than stuffing around with it all. And you can install the bits and pieces while the pan is off for the vB upgrade

Looking forward to a bit firmer shifting, it will also extend gearbox life as mine will have Dan's bit but is still only a standard rebuilt box - I'll have to ring the builder again and ask him what bands he uses etc.

Not worried about a standard looking interior but spending $18k on my current upgrade so trying to calm down the money for this year. Also happy with the sleeper look and not scared to weld and grind so happy to do the Shelby mod to the standard shifter - and I like the sleeper look! Means every ricer is not trying to take me on all the time, they just keep pulling up next to me at the lights and say, cool car!. Got the Lokar cable and carby lever coming and I'll check that the cable lever ratio's are 1:1 and fit the extra spring to the gearbox. Dan said with his kit and valve I just need to make sure the throttle cable is slightly slack at idle, it pulls the lever through it's full travel and the selector works right in every gear.

[Edz66Vert]

Found this - not sure about 'don't use a digital multi meter' - I threw my old one out years ago! One very important point that I have heard a number of times (including from my 2 radiator guys is fill with water first up when checking for stray voltages, check with all circuits on and off until you find the one causing it with a bad earth. Fix this circuit till stray currents go away, then drain and refill with the correct coolant. And stray currents has only occurred since we started using alloy radiators - Stray Currents with Alloy radiators

Stray currents in the cooling system

In simple terms stray current is a chemical/electrical process which causes an electrical current to pass through a vehicles cooling system fluid. It can cause rapid damage to radiators and will indirectly cause problems with other engine components such as water pumps, thermostat housings, etc.

This is brought about when one or more items such as a cooling fan or headlamp develops a problem in its electrical circuitry. This causes an electrical current to seek out an earth path via the radiator core through the engine coolant.

Check procedure
1. Remove the radiator cap and run the engine to operating temperature. Do not rev the engine as this may cause the coolant to aerate. Note: Removing the cap will reduce the boiling point of the coolant. This may result in electric cooling fans not operating on some vehicles,

2. Switch ON all electrical items including Items such as a mobile phone, rear demister, driving lights, etc.

3. Switch an analogue multi-meter to a scale of 5 volts DC or less. Ideally the meter should be capable of reading millivolts. Do not use a digital multi-meter as its internal operating characteristics are not suitable for this test.

4. Place the negative lead of the multi-meter on the battery negative post.

5. Dip the positive lead into the coolant without touching the filler neck or the core of the radiator.


Multi-meter check procedure for stray currents

6. A reading of more than .05 volts indicates the presence of a potentially damaging stray current passing through the coolant. Ideally the voltage should be 0 volts, however it is highly possible that some voltage level will be detected.

7. If no voltage or a very low voltage is detected, carry out the same test as in point 4, but with the ignition OFF.

8. If voltage is detected, isolate the circuit by turning all electrical items OFF and switching each circuit ON individually.

Caution
Refilling a cooling system with coolant will itself generate a current that lasts approximately twelve hours.

This can be avoided by refilling a repaired vehicle, for example, with clean water and then proceeding to test for stray current.