Mustang Tech

Apologies for not loading much at the moment. NBN has crapped itself down our way. Download speeds of 5.2 on a good day & upload 1.7

You can see that last night there was a 70minute time difference to upload 6 photos.

It appears the overseas workers that were bought in to lay the cable, stuffed it up & a new one has to be pulled in. I guess we had no one in Australia that was capable of laying cable .......

Speeds are up tonight so I will try for an update .....

This build used the bolt on upper quarter scoops. Reasons are, 1, they look better, 2 they actually work .....

Next was to get the trunk lid to fit. That meant adding fiberglass to the outer edges to bring them up to the quarter panel height & then remove the extra thickness from the underside so it would still close. You can also see the welding mods to the quarter to make the gaps even .......





A trick to use when fitting fiberglass panels is to use the standard Ford adjustable rubber hood bump stops. You can see them here in the corner area of the trunk opening......

In getting ready to add the rest of the E kit, first I had to modify the front fenders. The wheel arch lip was modified (similar to the Boss 302 arch mod) by trimming the lip & then folding it up closer to the outside edge ......



The rear edges of the repo panels usually need work & this picture shows a mod that gives extra strength & increased clearance to the plenum chamber (eliminating a potential squeak)



A further mod required when fitting this kit is cutting the lower nose off the fenders. The way this kit was made, allowed me to create a lip so the lower nose panel can be bolted on. These pictures show the lip, note the fenders are upside down in these pictures .....





Another mod while the fenders are still off the car, is to give access for changing a headlamp bulb if ever one blows. In the kits I have seen, you have to remove the nose to replace the bulb. Quite stupid IMO. The fix is to cut a big hole in the panel .....



That meant new front splash panels needed to be made. First pic is comparing the old & new, second pic is the new .......





Before test fitting the nose panels, a couple of Riv Nut fasteners needed to be fitted to the front tie rail. This allowed the lower nose panel to be fastened in place ....





Nose panels test fitted .....

I have halfway decent speed out of the NBN today, so here goes.

These 2 pictures show how the lower front valance bolted up to the modified fenders ......

The lower rear of the front fenders bolted up to the rocker panel. In 1967 onward, Ford had a bracket mounted to the front of the rocker that held a clip so a second bolt would hold the fender in place near the wheel arch. The E kits do not have a hole to get that bolt in place .....



The obvious fix is to make a hole .......



So the gluing begins (3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive) ......

The finish after a little filing, sanding & some plastic body filler .......





Had to cut up the fiberglass rear bumper to get it to fit the way I wanted. Bumper is glued to the brackets then bolted on .....





Both quarter panel end caps needed a lot of work, but they came up nice .....





Trunk gaps now nice .......





The nose then was massaged into shape .......





The eagle eyed ones here will see what the next post (interior) is all about

You making a Shelby Roll Bar?

Nuts wrote:You making a Shelby Roll Bar?

Past tense, yes I had Bond Roll Bars bend one to my spec. The rest was a direct copy off a genuine one.

I had made a template of a 67 Shelby roll bar & took it to Bond Roll Bars so they could bend me up a hoop. After returning back to Duggo with it, I fabricated the brackets that fasten it to the Seat belt mounts. The proposed inertia seat belts will use this same point of attachment & do 2 jobs (keep the roll bar attached to the roof rail & mount the top of the seat belt dropper).









I bolted it to the upper rear torque box (Shelby's were stick welded there) so the upholstery could be attached out of the car (it must be padded) & makes the head liner easier to install.





At this time, I also installed the flexible ducting (donkey dick) for the brake cooling ducts (tyre wetters)

I found a better picture of the hood bump stop that I relocated for the trunk adjustment. I inserted a RivNut & the locking nut is on the underside .......

One of the last tasks was to apply the sound deadener to the wheel wells & paint the engine bay & dash. That allows the car to be mechanically assembled so that when it goes to the paint shop, it does tot have to be pushed everywhere....







The dash .....



The rear bumper in shape along with the rear lower valance ......



The front tow hooks that George (gbx78) found. Now I need to get George over here so I can fit his set ......



All packed & ready to go ......



That is the end of the story from my end. The next project will be one for me. Maybe this one that I built in the late 1980's & now have the opportunity to buy it back .......

A seam welded brick with a glass flip front,.... noice..

geeez youve been busy!! looks great mate. funny i was about to msg and check in to see how you and the pup are doing?

..yes i have to work out which box those tow hooks are in!! they look great installed!! donkey dick looks good too.. err that came out wrong! was there a mini tub on this one? thats my next venture i think. crazy times at the moment but depending on the day may be able to swing past for a bit. I wanna see the new pup .

Pinto-Pete wrote:A seam welded brick with a glass flip front,.... noice..

All steel, but the future maybe fiberglass. I built it with my class of pre-apprentice students back then.