Dynamic Stang
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Re: Dynamic Stang
so might be worth putting it on a jig then just to be safe
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- Mustang King
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Re: Dynamic Stang
Thats ideal but a level slab on jackstands with even measurements to the frame is ok for us Sandgropers. You could use scissor jacks (cheap to get at wreckers)and/or wind up jackstands to get fairly precise measurement.
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Re: Dynamic Stang
Yeah my only problem is the carport where it lives is really uneven and bumpy and I wouldn't be confident in how even the car would sit unless it's supported by a jig/frame. At least I can then use it to transport the car around as well!
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- Mustang King
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Re: Dynamic Stang
Have you still got your old holden ute?
Do what i did to the convertible then its mobile and high enough to work under.
I sandblasted the under side of this outside the shed and replaced the floor.
Note the scissor jacks and the wind up jackstand you can make out on the rh front torque box in the second pic.
Unfortunately the vert is still sitting on it like that in the leanto so i cant let you borrow it.
Do what i did to the convertible then its mobile and high enough to work under.
I sandblasted the under side of this outside the shed and replaced the floor.
Note the scissor jacks and the wind up jackstand you can make out on the rh front torque box in the second pic.
Unfortunately the vert is still sitting on it like that in the leanto so i cant let you borrow it.
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Re: Dynamic Stang
hahah yeah I should have put the ute to good use instead I sold it but at least I have the money to slam straight into the stang now! I was thinking of a more traditional jig like Mike used haha but I love the ingenuinty
Re: Dynamic Stang
Even on a jig / frame (similar to mine) I would still want a fairly even and level floor to put in on as it could still get the smallest twist in it if there is enough weight...Dynamic wrote:Yeah my only problem is the carport where it lives is really uneven and bumpy and I wouldn't be confident in how even the car would sit unless it's supported by a jig/frame. At least I can then use it to transport the car around as well!
Why don't you call in some surveyors and spot out four points to level up your jack stands... maybe even fork out for a new garage floor for your old man
Fifty Years Afloat
We can't alter the direction of the wind,
But we can adjust our sails
We can't alter the direction of the wind,
But we can adjust our sails
Re: Dynamic Stang
Buy a spot weld drill... came in pretty handy for me.
Re: Dynamic Stang
Grind your own, much cheaper.hybrid wrote:Buy a spot weld drill... came in pretty handy for me.
Re: Dynamic Stang
The one I had you couldn't grind yourself.
It was like a small hole saw.. very shallow cut.
It was like a small hole saw.. very shallow cut.
Re: Dynamic Stang
Ah yes, I know them. I just didnt have a good run with that style.hybrid wrote:The one I had you couldn't grind yourself.
It was like a small hole saw.. very shallow cut.
They worked well for you?
I'm doing something wrong.......... but thats normal.
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- Mustang King
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Re: Dynamic Stang
I had a few goes and failed attempts or they didnt last long, so ended up bying one when i did the Jag, was so much easier and it lasted. Best $20 spentnassi wrote:Grind your own, much cheaper.hybrid wrote:Buy a spot weld drill... came in pretty handy for me.
But i have never been good at sharpening drill bits even after buying the sharpening tools.
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- Mustang King
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Re: Dynamic Stang
Havent seen that type before.hybrid wrote:The one I had you couldn't grind yourself.
It was like a small hole saw.. very shallow cut.
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Re: Dynamic Stang
Couldn't find it in my thread here but here is a link to another blog that I maintain on my project Upper and Lower Cowl Removal - look down the page and you will see what I had to do to my "new" cowl - because of the twist that was factory supplied with the unit...
Also, if you go to this link ("4 weeks in") and look half way down (for "Removing the front seat riser") you will see the drill bit that I ground up to remove spot welds... you do need to drill pilot holes right through first though
Also, if you go to this link ("4 weeks in") and look half way down (for "Removing the front seat riser") you will see the drill bit that I ground up to remove spot welds... you do need to drill pilot holes right through first though
Fifty Years Afloat
We can't alter the direction of the wind,
But we can adjust our sails
We can't alter the direction of the wind,
But we can adjust our sails
Re: Dynamic Stang
Quite normal nassi. That style in a workshop would last a day (using both sides) at the longest. Good for the hobby shop or home use as most home drills are slower. Using cutting fluid also helps.nassi wrote:Ah yes, I know them. I just didnt have a good run with that style.hybrid wrote:The one I had you couldn't grind yourself.
It was like a small hole saw.. very shallow cut.
They worked well for you?
I'm doing something wrong.......... but thats normal.
I use these, they last forever & can be sharpened. Expensive at first, but in my environment, they are the best bang for the buck ......
http://www.hougen.com/cutters/cutters_index.html
I used that style at my friends machine shop in the US to build the Jungle Gym the last trip. One cutter drilled over 500 holes (after the 1/4" pilot hole) & was still as sharp as when I started ......
As nassi says, you can make your own out of a standard drill bit. Just have to know & understand how to grind the end ......
Kerry
To our wives and sweethearts. May they never meet
To our wives and sweethearts. May they never meet
Re: Dynamic Stang
This what I ground up to use when removing the rear shock mount. It drilled probably around 40 spotwelds I guess and is still sharp. I did drill a 1/8 hole to start with as the grinding wheel needed to be dressed so I couldn't quite get the center part correct. Like Kerry says just need to sharpen the clearances correctly.