Page 63 of 66

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:07 am
by Ausjacko
ozbilt wrote:Ok, now to be picky. You need to remove the headlight rims, mask from the J moulds out and paint the behind the headlights and up to the J mould, black.
Right, after I figured out where the hell you are talking about (the J moulds are on the outside of the headlights) I checked my reference folder and you are spot-on! Will have to consult the colour guru on what black to use and prep- doh!

I had hoped you were referring to the moulds around the headlights as I only had them bolted at the top not correctly- they now are.

Cheers
Jacko

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 5:14 am
by malscar
Love how it has turned out. Nice old school plus a good set of wheels. Look to be a set of Aunger jelly beans.

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 7:07 am
by ozbilt
Ausjacko wrote:
ozbilt wrote:Ok, now to be picky. You need to remove the headlight rims, mask from the J moulds out and paint the behind the headlights and up to the J mould, black.
Right, after I figured out where the hell you are talking about (the J moulds are on the outside of the headlights) I checked my reference folder and you are spot-on! Will have to consult the colour guru on what black to use and prep- doh!

I had hoped you were referring to the moulds around the headlights as I only had them bolted at the top not correctly- they now are.

Cheers
Jacko
Yep. Spot on.

I would give it a scotchbrite and then some bug bomb semigloss black.

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:49 am
by Ausjacko
OK, might ask JBB if he can assist on the spraying front; Charlie H thought he did a fine job!

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:17 pm
by soc123_au
That looks so good with plates on it. The black around the headlights isnt a big drama. If you plan on being up this way in it we could have it in & out in a few hours.

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 6:42 am
by Ausjacko
11 February 2018
Fitech day!
Fitted the hoses and electrical connectors on the Saturday and Sunday was to be the start day. Powered up the handheld unit and changed the parameters (capacity, target idle speed, fuel cell pulse width modulation down to 40 and mild cam). Went to crank the motor and the battery was lagging- wouldn’t you know it!

I had the fuel command centre disconnected while I did this as it needs to get fuel into it from the mechanical pump; should have done it a bit longer. With a bit more fuel into the pot I connected it to power and cranked it over; no start. So much for the Fitech ‘couple of cranks and she is away’. More cranks and nothing but at least I had fuel. To be fair to Fitech, the ignition spade connector that I thought I had pushed back in correctly was not in properly. Put that in and the battery was now really not happy. Put it and the power pack on charge.

After a long 30 mins back to the car. This time it spluttered and fired but did not run, it was as if the idle screw needed to come out but it does not have one. On the Fitech the ‘idle screw’ is the IAC screw on the front right of the unit. A couple more tries and now I had a grey screen on the hand held. Google told me this was low voltage- ie the battery still was not happy- back on charge it goes.

After a suitable delay during which I connected the throttle arm, back to the handheld to update the settings again, sent it to the ECU and she fired into life with a bit of throttle help. IAC steps were very high meaning I adjusted the screw a bit too much. A bit of tinkering and I had this sorted to around 4-6 (3 to 10 is said to be good).

Car idles up and then you can hear it settle down as it tries to reach the AFR target. The hand held unit confirmed my thinking that I have the wrong temp sender. 150 deg f on the handheld reads 190ish on the gauge. Not the ‘first fire’ Fitech start I was hoping for but pretty easy nonetheless.

Here is the video, noting I had already fitted the fuel command centre, and had fitted plastic plug connectors for the power, switched ignition and tach signal during the build.



Then came fitting the air cleaner. I need a low slung unit to clear the bonnet. The Fitech fuel inlet was fouling the inner rim of the unit I had been using. A bit of hammer and dolly work and the base now clears. Now I just need a long 5/16th threaded rod as it is bigger than the standard Holley ¼. Overall, I think this unit will work really well.

Single piece of advice to prospective Fitech installers: make sure the battery is charged ;-)

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 7:32 am
by ozbilt
Thanks Jacko. Now you have convinced me to keep Mrsozbilt's Mach with the 2 barrel Autolite that it came with .... :$ .... :poke: :lol:

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:39 am
by hybrid
Most EFI with idle control will idle up higher than normal after first start and then taper down to the normal idle speed.
I'm really surprised that since it's being fed an RPM signal that it couldn't just open the idle stepper itself when it knew it wasn't idling properly.
You should just set a target RPM and it adjusts the stepper until it hits the target.

Barometric correction is correction of the fueling based on barometric pressure. So as you climb a mountain, there's less air pressure and the engines fueling requirements are different.

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:55 am
by Ausjacko
Hybrid, the unit does what you describe; idles up and settles down. However at the initial start and set-up, the issue I think was that it was not flowing enough air at idle. Akin to having a cover over the venturis. Me adjusting the screw took them off completely closed, like in a holley having the butterflies 4 thou opened. Doing this with the unit off then allowed the TPS to zero and it was then able to control itself. Initially though it was effectively choking through lack of air, hence my manual operation of the throttle allowed it to work.

I am sure the more I use it, explore the sub menus in the controller and read other posts, the more I will understand it. You never know, I ma even be able to join in a microsquirt conversation ;-)

Big Mc, do it. Just make sure you have the battery charged and the ignition wire connected to your coil- makes a big difference.

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 5:09 pm
by Nuts
Good Job Jacko.. We'll have to have a Fitech day!

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:15 am
by Ausjacko
Took the car for the first longer driver today and found I have an overheating issue. Arriving at Wheels resembling a steam train did attract some attention but none good. The overflow at the cap was breaching like a hump back whale.

Cutting a long story short, the car got to 215degF and lost a fair bit of coolant. Let it cool down, added water and we limped home- same result. Radiator came out and someone had swapped out the coolant for chai latte I the radiator. I think she is blocked as nothing but green coolant came out the block when I back flushed it. Checked the thermostat and it opens at 82ish as expected.
Anyway, a teething issue as they say.

With the rad out I have removed the headlight surrounds and masked off the orange bit behind the eyebrow mould that Big Mc spotted. When JBB has a spare moment we (that weird we) will spray that area black.
Big M, next time you are down I have a stainless trim application task for you. JBB and I are intimidated by it but others are saying we need to fit them.
Cheers
Jacko

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:26 am
by ozbilt
Hmmm, the old stainless steel mould fitting problem ........ Ok chief, I will get to that next time I am in town ........ :bingo:

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:45 am
by Ausjacko
JBB, we can both watch this lesson and then we will not be scaredy cats.

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:28 am
by Nuts
I have never before seen a steam powered HT. Nice car Jacko!

Re: Jacko's Project

Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:32 am
by ACTstanglover
And the more important question, did you find the first owner of the car