65 Steering conversion??

[unilec5544]

Just assembling all the parts I have to convert to RHD. So thought I would get the process over before I cut and shut the firewall and the dash.
I have a XF power steering box which I want to use and some XY steering components, also I have located a drag link from a compact fairlane.
But I can’t see how these parts can go together, the compact drag link seem to connect to the idler arm in a different way to the XY and XF, so can someone tell me what other parts I need, such as pitman arm and idler arm and from what model vehicle?

Appreciate any help, Neil.

This is my present set up.




These are the parts I have.

[boofhead]

Have a search around for Shaunp posts and project. It will provide a lot of in site. The key is correctly locating the box and getting the drag link sorted correctly. Normally the drag link is cut shortened and rewelded (and tested etc). I my experience, a good job can result in the car driving far better than it was from the factory.

[boofhead]

Found his project

http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/vi ... =1597.html

[scott66stang]

I have a compact fairlane draglink here aswell and have found that it is no good without all the rest of the compact steering as it is not compatible with the falcons pitman and idler arms or tierod ends.

I have posted somewhere on one of the RHD conversion threads pictures of the XY,XF,Compact and original Mustang draglinks and the measurements.

[unilec5544]

Found his project

http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/vi ... =1597.html

Thanks boofhead, i have seen Shaunp's project before, unfotunately the 67 is different to the 65-66.

[unilec5544]

I have a compact fairlane draglink here aswell and have found that it is no good without all the rest of the compact steering as it is not compatible with the falcons pitman and idler arms or tierod ends.

I have posted somewhere on one of the RHD conversion threads pictures of the XY,XF,Compact and original Mustang draglinks and the measurements.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the original conversions were done using the compact drag link.
So i still need to get the idler arm and pitman arm for the compact? Will I then need to cut and shut an xf and compact pitman arm to fit?

[ozbilt]

I have a compact fairlane draglink here aswell and have found that it is no good without all the rest of the compact steering as it is not compatible with the falcons pitman and idler arms or tierod ends.

I have posted somewhere on one of the RHD conversion threads pictures of the XY,XF,Compact and original Mustang draglinks and the measurements.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the original conversions were done using the compact drag link.
So i still need to get the idler arm and pitman arm for the compact? Will I then need to cut and shut an xf and compact pitman arm to fit?

Shaunp had a contact that did that type of work. Do not know if the guy did outside work, but remember he had all the jigs etc.

You will also need the templates as to where the steering box & idler go. Not as easy as it sounds & will take some trial fitting & testing.

Testing is done by having the front springs out, steering box & idler clamped into place, then taking the suspension from droop to bump moving the box & idler arm until you have the least amount of bump steer.

Failing that you could always go the rack & pinion way, but only use TCP.

[scott66stang]

I have a compact fairlane draglink here aswell and have found that it is no good without all the rest of the compact steering as it is not compatible with the falcons pitman and idler arms or tierod ends.

I have posted somewhere on one of the RHD conversion threads pictures of the XY,XF,Compact and original Mustang draglinks and the measurements.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the original conversions were done using the compact drag link.
So i still need to get the idler arm and pitman arm for the compact? Will I then need to cut and shut an xf and compact pitman arm to fit?

I believe that is true from what i hear, but i think you will find that the complete steering was used including steering box, idler and at least the inner tie rods because i have found that none of the Falcon parts are able to fit to the compact drag link including the spline on the piman arm not fitting other boxes.
Found the thread, it was one of yours


http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/vi ... rt=30.html

[boofhead]

The Guy Shawnp uses to do the drag link is John Green of Probe Engineering in QLD. Give him a call (07) 3396 6033. I know that he uses the same general approach for the the 65-66 and the later 67 etc. Naturally he has built jigs for correct location of the gear for superior steer angles to remove bump steer etc also repositions the column for more comfort.

[Shaunp]

Boof head is correct, John uses the same approach for a 67 and a 66, however the drag link is car specific, as the front end of each car is quite different cut and shut, tested and certified.

It's my understanding that compact fairlane parts is what Ford Oz used to convert the 65's they sold here. Pretty sure John may well have done some early conversions many years ago with Compact parts as well, prior to DOT allowing modified drag links. The modified link and XF box is the way to go.

[unilec5544]

The Guy Shawnp uses to do the drag link is John Green of Probe Engineering in QLD. Give him a call (07) 3396 6033. I know that he uses the same general approach for the the 65-66 and the later 67 etc. Naturally he has built jigs for correct location of the gear for superior steer angles to remove bump steer etc also repositions the column for more comfort.

Thanks boofhead, I will give him a call in the next couple of days.

[unilec5544]

Boof head is correct, John uses the same approach for a 67 and a 66, however the drag link is car specific, as the front end of each car is quite different cut and shut, tested and certified.

It's my understanding that compact fairlane parts is what Ford Oz used to convert the 65's they sold here. Pretty sure John may well have done some early conversions many years ago with Compact parts as well, prior to DOT allowing modified drag links. The modified link and XF box is the way to go.

Thanks Shaun,Just been reading some old posts and it seems that I have no option but to cut and re-weld the drag link. So the first thing to do is as ozbilt has explained, remove the shocks and springs to check the bump steer with the steering box and idler arm clamped to the chassis. So I think I will do this before I remove the original steering box and components, to obtain a bench mark as to what the original bump steer is like. I am assuming this means deflection of the spindle.
Once I have obtained the optimal location then to measure the distance between centres to establish the length of the new drag link.
Once that is done to make a jig up and cut the two ends off an XY drag link, cut the ends off of my original drag link, tack weld them in place at the correct length and then find a professional welder to weld the parts together and then have the welds x-rayed.
Once this is all put back together I will end up with an XF power steering box and pitman arm, an XF idler arm and the original connecting rods.
I am sure it is a lot more complex than this I just want to know if I am on the right track before I make a start.

Appreciate any input, cheers Neil.

[Shaunp]

You'll need an Xy idler if you have an Xy link, as the pin is a different size to XA on. To mount the Xf box it needs to back a little further than you think, have a look at my car you'll notice the drag link bends back a bit, If you don't want to run a rally pack you can also tilt the Col up to lift the wheel a bit to make a better driving postion. This done by angleing the box up. When you weld the link, you grind the ends that you but up to a point, and hold them a couple of mm apart, the weld is then built up around the link to fill the V joint. John has a guy who welds his, once he has them ready, he then has them tested locally by a NATA aproved industrail imaging mob. The Xray ray costs you, more than the weld, they stamp a number on the link and give a written report that certifies it. If you are going to use Falcon stub axles you'll want falcon outer tie rods.
Of course you need crush tubes in the rails where yo drill it. You can use the mustang outer col, with a colapsable falcon inner inside, so it all looks proper.

[unilec5544]

You will also need the templates as to where the steering box & idler go. Not as easy as it sounds & will take some trial fitting & testing.

Testing is done by having the front springs out, steering box & idler clamped into place, then taking the suspension from droop to bump moving the box & idler arm until you have the least amount of bump steer.

I have removed the spring and still can't seem to figure out how you check or measure for bump steer. The hub tends to move out from the car when you lift the suspension up.

[nassi]

we use a dial gauge set against a plate bolted to the hub (actually its a kit from TCP I think). Use your normal ride height as a datum and zero the dial gauge, record the the direction (toe in/out) and amount of deviation on the dial gauge.
I think your best bet though is to use proven combinations from people on here. If you need I can get details of the bloke we use to modify draglinks here in Perth. He has been doing them for many years and looks after the certification as well from memory.
cheers