Power steering control valve removal

[hybrid]

Looks like my control valve is very worn around the joint. There is probably 1mm of play there, and the bush inside looks very worn.

I was thinking of just replacing the whole thing, but cant see how it comes out. I notice there is a washer/nut on the end of the small shaft, but even if I undo that, I still don't see how the tapered ball joint can come out.

Can anyone shed any light?

[jusTANG]

best i can do

[Nuts]

There is supposed to be side to side play in the ball stud. This is what actuates the power assist. If there is lateral play replace the ball and socket. While you're at it put a seal kit in as well. Overhauls kits are available from Capital Classics. Full details on rebuilding it are in the 65 and 66 workshop manual. It's not hard to do. If in doubt get someone that has done it before to show you.

[hybrid]

Thanks fellas.
It's definitely the socket that's worn.
Also the clamp is missing from mine.

I'll try and get it out and have a better look at it, but I'm swaying towards replacing the whole lot at the moment. I don't want to risk leaks. Apparently these are really bad for it?

[Nuts]

65/6 don't have a clamp.

[LEEH69]

Hybrid
Had trouble with mine also, looked at doing it myself but was told if the valve parts weren't repaired and replaced in the exact position the car will track badly and no wheel alignment will fix it, I had the control valve rebuilt buy a power steering mob for just over $200.
not sure what the rebuild kit would cost but it took them a morning where it would probably have taken me the whole day.
good luck which ever way you go

[jbrucem1]

have heard horrible repair stories of people diy..i would take it to a shop and let them deal with it..if u diy you need a surgically clean work area, patience and a few cold beers..and then it will probably still leak
you will need a puller to remove the control valve from the box, specific ford tool # but u can make your own

[hybrid]

Sounds like even more reason to replace with new. They aren't cheap though

Anyone know anyone in Sydney that can rebuild?

[Ausjacko]

Hi Hybrid
I have uploaded a couple of photos of my control valve. I put a new kit in the valve ($37) and bought a ram boot ($20). The hardest part was getting the bloody thing off the steering box. DON NOT use a pickle fork! I purchased a really neat tie rod remover for $20 and it worked fine. This tool was really neat (see link http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-ta-61900.html). You tighten the bolt and load the threaded end of the ball stud and then give the end of the tool a 'love tap' with the hammer and she popped out. My previous attempts (about 2 hours worth) were otherwise embarrassing and will never to be revealed while sober.
A couple of tips:
-The trailing arm has a rolled pin stopping it from rotating in the valve sleeve- take this out before you try and unscrew the arm.
- Mark the trailing arm where it meets the valve sleeve or count the number of turns to get it out. Helps get the wheel alignment nearly right when you reinstall.
-The exploded view from Justang came in very handy fixing an issue when I reinstalled. When jacked up and the engine going, the front wheels would 'creep' to the right. Tightening or loosening the 'adjusting nut' gives you some adjustment to correct this. As it turned out, I was missing the small washer on the adjusting nut end of my valve. I made a small washer and reinstalled and this gave me just the right amount of adjustment to pull the valve into its neutral position.
Rego guys thought I had purchased a new control valve and passed with flying colours.
Cheers
Ian



OK, how do you get these images working? Jacko

[hybrid]

Jacko, take the "=512x384" out of the img tags. That doesn't work in this forum.

No need for the tool... my steering is all out of the car and in peices.
So you put the kit through yourself. Was it easy enough?

[Ausjacko]

Thanks Hybrid
Yes, put the kit through myself. Pretty easy once the bloody thing was out- and the washer went back in (which I did with it on the car). Nut gave me some advice re the adjustment nut as I described.
BTW, the pipe at the bottom of the frame in the 'after' photo was made by the previous owner. H had it made to take a braided line as his wife (who told me the story) was sick of the Hooker super comp headers melting the standard rubber hose and the steering becoming 'heavy'
Cheers
Jacko

[jusTANG]

Hybrid
Had trouble with mine also, looked at doing it myself but was told if the valve parts weren't repaired and replaced in the exact position the car will track badly and no wheel alignment will fix it, I had the control valve rebuilt buy a power steering mob for just over $200.
not sure what the rebuild kit would cost but it took them a morning where it would probably have taken me the whole day.
good luck which ever way you go

was told the same but then a local guy helped me out (thanks Nuts) after a couple of goes all was good and easy......best $200 i saved

[hybrid]

Ian/Jacko, where did you get hold of the valve kit?

$37 is cheaper than what I can see in the states

[ozbilt]

Sounds like a description or a copy of what j put on the "other" site to go in the technical section here.

[Ausjacko]

Whoops, my bad.
The cost of the "P/S valve ball stud rebuild kit (C2AZ-3A533-A)" was $90.91. Sorry for the confusion. Here are the other bits I used:
Power steering ram boot C5ZZ-3A540-B 19.09
Power steering boot seal 36.37
I think I got these pieces from Griffs or Capital Classics.

I keep a spreadsheet of all the bits I buy but did not scan down far enough.

Kerry, you have a better memory than me. I posted something similar, with less detail, when Justang was having similar issues. The other useful tips I included there were:
Good quality tube nuts spanners are a must.
Power steering fluid in your eye is not good.

Cheers
Ian