Suspension advice for my 65 Mustang soft top

[Gav]

Hi all,

THis is my first post on the site so please bare with me.

I have a 1965 Mustang convertible. It is a GT 350 clone. I have been working on the beast for the last twelve Months and it now goes and stops nicely. I am now up to the part where I want to improve the handling. I run a 17" show wheel on all four corners. I am looking for a ride that allows me to throw it into a corner and enjoy v's currently tip toeing around the corner due to body roll and some scrubbing on the guards. I take the family on outings so the ride can not be race track like.

Any advice on a combination that won't result in a mortgage on the house?

Gav

[MustangMedic]

Nice looking ride,Gav and welcome to the forum,I'm no handling guru how ever I'm sure mr Ozbilt will be along shortly.

[ozbilt]

Springs, shocks, sway bars & a few mods to existing suspension.

Height of the car looks good & I assume you will want to keep that? If the car bottoms out when rear seat passengers are aboard, then you may need to up the rear spring rate.

I would only fit Koni or Bilstein shock absorbers as they are for life, adjustable & rebuildable.

Sway bars, put the next size larger on the front & if you like, fit one on the rear. Good news is the car body is stiff as it has both torque boxes in the front, something a coupe or fastback does not.

If you are in the mood for a bit of welding, then fit camber pins to the lower arms. You can also make the caster bars adjustable by removing them, threading them another 50mm further & adding an inner nu. That allows caster to be wound on with that bar like the 67 & later cars. Top A arm still gets shimmed so that the wheel is "centered" in the whell arch.

"Shelby" drop, if considering that remember to use the wedge kit. The drop is described in the technical section.

[hybrid]

Kerry, is threading the bar further all thats required for the caster?

I was looking at it the other day and couldn't see how that's all that was required. From memory there is also a lip on the bar that would have to go. Though I guess that wouldn't be needed with the second nut in place.

I was looking at adjustable ones, and they aren't cheap

[ozbilt]

Kerry, is threading the bar further all thats required for the caster?

I was looking at it the other day and couldn't see how that's all that was required. From memory there is also a lip on the bar that would have to go. Though I guess that wouldn't be needed with the second nut in place.

I was looking at adjustable ones, and they aren't cheap

It would be a job in a lathe. that is how I did the last one from memory (was 16 years ago!) & yes the second nut takes the place of the lip. Speaking of which, make sure it is a rounded progression at the end of the thread to the bar & not a sharp transition as that would create a weak point.

All the ones I have done since have used the TCP stuff.

[moe]

Hi Gav, welcome to the site.

What size tyres are fitted?

Also, chuck on an export brace if one is not already fitted.

[Bumblebee]

I have done roughly what Kerry is precribing and it works well:

Shelby drop
Negative wedge kit
Bump steer kit
Whiteline 24mm sway bar
King springs upfront (KFFL-59)
Re-rated leaf insert in the rear
(Traction masters - help locate/secure the rear axle)
Koni Special D shocks
Export brace

All this made a massive difference!

I did later on add an RRS power rack and pinion which I'm thrilled with and it now drives my brake booster too, although not everyone wants that rather expensive option.

[ChilliChadd]

Wrlcome Gav, nice looking 65

[Gav]

Thanks guy's,

Awsome responses.

After a horrific intro to the Mustang world, there seems to be a great deal of support.

I purchased a car that was suppose to have been "totally re-built". Since then, I have had to re-build the engine, diff, transmission and electrics. I have bored the old 302 to 30 thow and used flat tops. The crank was machined and balanced and the old rods which were good were strengthened with better support bolts. A stage 2 Cam has been installed and I sourced some heads that have the largest valves you can possibly fit. Roller rockers were fitted and I have then fitted a Carter Carby and a Offenhouser manifold. Hooker headers are now also fitted.

So after a car that was suppose to be all done, I have done a fair bit.

Any tips on where I can join a crew for a drive?

Thanks again for the advice guy's.

Gav

[stu67]

Welcome to the site Gav, great to have you on board. Car looks great, amazing how BIG 17's look on a classic!