Diff gurus,
Started rebuilding my (ex Mikes68) diff for our swap and got a question re pinion bearings since this is my first full build.
Outer pinion bearing (yoke side) is a tight fit on the pinion shaft. Old pinion bearing slides on the new pinion ok and the bearings are all numerically same part no but both new bearings in my rebuild kit are firm/tight on the pinion shaft. So I figure am "statistically" unlucky ie. big shaft and small id bearings from a machining standpoint.
What is the go is this a brute force effort to pull up or a bit of temperature differential work?
The link below is the first in a series of three videos. Not sure if they will answer your question and you have to put up with some poor jokes but they may be of help.
Rebuilding a diff center I have looked at a number of times but never attempted (but wanted to) - engine, gearboxes, axle bearing, etc I will do them all though each time I decided to do a diff center I find the $200.00 is easier to spend and have it done than do it myself. I guess the primary reason is that I also have limited access to a press. The video has partially dispelled that concern for me so next time I will give it go. Hence limited real rebuild experience from Boof on this topic so I kept a little more quite than if I had something decent to contribute. I am interested in how you go with it.
Mate has got a (very substantial) hobby workshop and got all the bearings and races pressed on yesterday in no time so that part was easy for me.
Santa delivered a CDI (unbranded Snap On) in-lb dial gauge torque wrench earlier today so I am fully equipped now! I always liked the saying " give a man a fish you feed him for a day, teach him to fish you feed him for a lifetime!"
Believe it or not bearing sizes change from brand to band. You can press them on or chuck them in the oven for a while and the will fall on, or chuck the pinion in the freezer over night, no big deal. You don't need an Inch pound dial type wrench, diff guys do them by feel, but you can do them with a bit of string and a fishing spring balance scale, this is how all the old Holden manuals tell you to do it. An inch pound is just the a pound of force to rotate it at an inch from the centre, Just cut a bit of timber or use a bit of pipe and attach to the socket that fits the pinion nut, wrap the string around it and pull it with the spring balance, the balance will read the pounds. Crushing the sleeve will be harder then pushing the bearings on, smash it with a good rattle gun.
Cheers Shaun. I had settled on oven/freezer trick since posting would be the ticket.
I fully understand the force vs distance concept as well as a lot of people doing them by feel. However, (obviously) I don't have the experience of someone who does it everyday and I am a mechanical engineer so err on the side of being precise ....but have worked in field construction and commissioning roles definitely not as pedantic as most engineers!
I want to do my diff, rebuild steering box, and one for Mike, so figured I will get a bit of use out of it so why not as they are pretty well priced ex US.
trav68 wrote:Cheers Shaun. I had settled on oven/freezer trick since posting would be the ticket.
I fully understand the force vs distance concept as well as a lot of people doing them by feel. However, (obviously) I don't have the experience of someone who does it everyday and I am a mechanical engineer so err on the side of being precise ....but have worked in field construction and commissioning roles definitely not as pedantic as most engineers!
I want to do my diff, rebuild steering box, and one for Mike, so figured I will get a bit of use out of it so why not as they are pretty well priced ex US.
CDI seem to make alot (maybe all) of the Snap On torque wrenches I have seen. So the quality is there you just dont have the lifetime guarantee but this is not a consumable tool.
Also if you want to put big power in through the 8" drill and tap the carrier bearing bolt holes deeper and fit some ARP studs, and do away with crush spacer, use a solid spacer and shims to set the preload. This is how the big HP diffs are done, Landrover diffs also have no crush tube.
