Battery relocation guidelines.

[66STNG]

Hi guys,
Looking for some guidance material, can't seem to locate the information I need.
I'm looking to locate my battery in the boot. I'm wondering if I can run it in the car, ie under the carpet here the centre console wil be, or does it have to be run underneath the car. And is there any other legalities involved, if there is such a document, where would I find it,
Thanks in advance...
66STNG

[nassi]

VE Commodore has it in the boot, in a battery box vented to outside the car. I do not know where the wiring ran but pretty sure it was not in the cab, never saw it when replacing the carpet on brand new cars after there first shower.

[Astro]

Recently done:



Master switch fitted with Meitrack GPS having it's own constant feed.

Cheers

J

[scott66stang]

I have done mine like this although havent neaten up or finished. I used 12mm welding cable and an isolation switch tucked away up on the boot hinge support. Keep in mind my starter motor is on the LHS, i havent got a new (heavier) cable going from the switch to the battery and havent fitted a battery box yet. To get pwr to engine bay the cable passes through the A pillar in behind the front wheel arch splash guard across the torque box and through the rear fender apron (i dont have pic, i havent shielded that last 200mm between splash shield and fender apron as yet). You can also run from the A pillar behind the interior kick panel trim across the foot pan and out through the firewall using a bulkhead electrical fitting. Also excuse the 6 years of dust build up in these pics 😒
I have recently attempted... with no joy... to start the motor involving alot of cranking, the Red Top Optima 800ah battery with this set up is having no problem cranking over for hours and hours and hours

[hybrid]

Good to see you back on it Scott! Sounds like you need a megasquirt

[scott66stang]

Mate its shitting me, yes i finally got back to it a week ago and spent 5 days of spare time on it. It all worked fine before i stripped the car down all those years ago, been swapping sensors , distributors etc doing the tests fuel pressure etc i can find info on. The NC EB 1 were the only V8 in that era without smart lock so the spare ECU i have in a NL wont work for testing and every time i search for V8 wiring it comes up 6cyl or EF. I eventually found wiring diagram on the Ford Forum after 3 nights of searching. It looks like im not getting a pulse to the injectors, but they do have power. It will kick over when i pour fuel into the manifold. Im just about ready to rip the whole wiring harness, NC heater box cruise control etc out and start again more original stuff.
😬

[cage]

Hi 66STNG, I have run mine through the car and so has soc123_au on his beast. Mine was engineered and approved no problem. Obviously you want the cable as short as possible so as my starter is on the right my battery is also on the right in the boot.

[hybrid]

Oh yeah.. I forgot to comment on the actual thread

There should be no legalities as far as running the wires through the car.

Scott: You should be able to rig up a LED/Resistor (or a light bulb) that you can rig up to each injector wire to easily see if you're getting pulses there. Might help to troubleshoot.
A scope would also help to see if you're getting a signal from the crank trigger etc. You can get cheap USB ones that you can plug in to a laptop and use software to view.
Sounds like you're getting spark though, so it must be getting some kind of signal from the crank trigger.

[lukep6470]

Oh yeah.. I forgot to comment on the actual thread

There should be no legalities as far as running the wires through the car.

Scott: You should be able to rig up a LED/Resistor (or a light bulb) that you can rig up to each injector wire to easily see if you're getting pulses there. Might help to troubleshoot.
A scope would also help to see if you're getting a signal from the crank trigger etc. You can get cheap USB ones that you can plug in to a laptop and use software to view.
Sounds like you're getting spark though, so it must be getting some kind of signal from the crank trigger.

Did the ECU come with the motor? Is it a Dizzy or EDIS style setup? If it is a TFI distributor than all it needs is power to get a spark going so that could be a false positive. If it is ODBII you will need a port scanner to see what the ECU is complaining about otherwise I've used an analogue multimieter for EECIV type readings.

[hybrid]

Good point - I forgot about TFI - I just assumed EDIS when thinking of injected 5.0.

[scott66stang]

Yes ECU came with motor as did the entire motor and body wiring harness . It doesn't have a crank sensor uses the TFI and it tests ok i have tried 3 TFI and 2 distributors on a known running NL Fairlane. The spare distributor i turned by hand off the motor ignition on and the coil lead with spark plug sparks, but cant hear injectors ticking. I couldnt get a Noid light locally to test plug pulse, but I have tried a led test light and a low voltage dash globe across 1 injector plug while cranking with a no show except when ignition first turned on there is a quick flash. I have checked all voltages to ecu, and all injectors show voltage at the ECU.
Im actually thinking all the injectors are gummed up from old fuel or crap even though the injector rail was stripped down and cleaned. Fuel was only put on for the first time last week with the new in tank pump i fitted a while back, new filter and line flushed first. The test gauge valve on the rail shows stacks of pressure, i dont know the exact pressure as the gauge is only suitable for non injection and pumped up off the gauge.

It is OB1, I am going to try the fault codes again by hooking up a test light and bridging terminals as per my manual instructions, when i tried before it told me "your a Dumbass... get your shit together and get me running you dickhead" 😏

Here i go Hijacking a thread again 😀

[66STNG]

yes, nice hi jack guys..
I need a wiring diagram of the best way to wire the start circuit, ie do you ground the battery next to the battery on the chassis or run another ground to the fuse board ect ect.
needs to include full start circuit, including alternator..

[scott66stang]

Ive got the ground going to a bolt on the bumper bracket after scraping paint off around the bolt. I may just drill a hole in the boot hinge support near my isolation switch and earth there depending on how i finish off the boot area. You dont need to run a full length earth cable as long as you have a good earth to the body and body to engine block.

[hybrid]

Yes the body is able to carry a lot more current than a cable ever could, so as long as you have good connections for all earths, earthing battery to chassis is fine.

[boofhead]

The injectors can be tested with 12v on off if they are high resistance - which they are as the NC used the 19lb ford set. You can hear the clicking when they open and close.

Batter to the body as already detailed - just make sure you have a good ground lead from body to the engine as well.