Camber wedges for 1" Shelby drop?

[mungus]

I've seen these camber wedges for sale, for using when dropping the A arms a'la Shelby.
These are not the expensive full wedge kits, for $350+ USD (which seem more track oriented), just the wedges themselves. They look OK and at $70 not too exxy. Easy enough to slip in whilst I'm replacing the ball joints, which is happening soonish.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/ridetech-bal ... /12109520/

As I am doing the Shelby drop (1" only) whilst the shell is bare, I wondered if these are a good idea.
Its for the road and only the usual 1" drop using STD A arms. But if the ball joints do get misaligned as a side effect of the drop then maybe its worth doing anyway...

Some websites say not needed if only doing the 1" drop, that they'll never bind up and that they are only useful for bigger drops for racing etc. Others say its useful on any drop job.

Whats the consensus around here from those who've done it? Good practice or a waste of money?

[ozbilt]

Waste of time & effort if only a road car. If you were doing track work or hill climb, then yes a good mod.

[mungus]

Waste of time & effort if only a road car. If you were doing track work or hill climb, then yes a good mod.

Fair enough. That's kinda what I figured.

Off the topic slightly, but part of the same job... One economical upgrade that I like, and that keeps a STD look, is fitting some better spring saddles. Maybe not the roller versions at $350-400 USD, (like the wedges, just not necessary) but perhaps the SCOTT DRAKE elastomer jobs. Should take the squeak out and let things move properly. The old rubber jobs are shot, so I figure fitting those, and the adjustable Koni's I've bought, plus the drop, and a decent alignment using specs from the fellas on here, should make a big improvement to the behaviour of the front end, without spending mega bucks or looking too restomod for my tastes. I've bought new SD lower arms and a pair of bolt in upper ball joints to tighten things up there, so it should be decent enough set up for road use when its all done.

I'm probably using the Kenda Klever tyres as after extensive searching it seems there's nothing else I can find out there in 15" that's any good at a reasonable price. The Avons are great but are just silly money. There were some interesting Falkens being made, but the sizes I wanted are no longer available. And I've no interest in paying double the price for some BFG's ice skates! Or running the equally inadequate MT or Cooper offerings.
I guess thems the breaks when you want traditional sidewall profiles in 15"!

One of these days I'll start a project thread on this car...

[ozbilt]

Urethane is never much good in suspension. They still squeak when out of grease.One of the brands do have zerk (grease nipple) fittings and that helps. Usually the squeak is the shock itself. Reason is because of the top arm angle, it puts stress in one direction on the shaft of the shock. I have found that a spring perch with a mono ball center is the only thing that centers the spring and shock.






Edited for spelling

[hybrid]

I put the wedges in mine, but apparently only really needed for the bigger drop.

[boofhead]

I have wedges in mine as well. I like to know there was the extra range of movement available so I deemed it safer.

[xpconnor]

If you still want to do the drop and just to be safe you can use Kerry's idea and put a slightly bigger bump stop in to stop any chance of the ball joint binding at the top of its movement.

[mungus]

Thanks for all the ideas everyone. All helpful.

[mungus]

I have wedges in mine as well. I like to know there was the extra range of movement available so I deemed it safer.

I'm still thinking that isn't a bad idea. For the sake of $70 you're covered and improving joint geometry.
I'll have a think...

[ozbilt]

I have wedges in mine as well. I like to know there was the extra range of movement available so I deemed it safer.

I'm still thinking that isn't a bad idea. For the sake of $70 you're covered and improving joint geometry.
I'll have a think...

& that is the crazy part, "improving joint geometry" is not correct for a road car. You will NOT be running 3 - 5 degrees of neg camber as that is race car stuff. Reality -0.5 degrees will be the setting on your road car & that will give you some -1.0 in corners, more with the "drop".

If you do not have someone that COMPLETELY understands older suspension wheel alignments, all you will do is wear out those expensive 15" tyres. But that is your call, as for me, I do not run it on road cars & suspension has been part of what I do (Dec 17th this year will be 50 years).

[ozbilt]

I have wedges in mine as well. I like to know there was the extra range of movement available so I deemed it safer.

I'm still thinking that isn't a bad idea. For the sake of $70 you're covered and improving joint geometry.
I'll have a think...

Also remember Boof's car was set up for some track work, as most of his builds have been over the years.

[boofhead]

Thats true. I set my cars up for street with a track bias. I have enjoyed track work for many years. My Cougar (67) does not have a Shelby drop though I have used the falcon spindles which are 1/2 higher so I get a small change to the camber curve. It is a pure street car.

[unilec5544]

It has been my understanding that the wedge kit places the ball joint back into the neutral position at rest and not at a slight angle, thereby reducing wear and not so much about arm travel.

[boofhead]

It has been my understanding that the wedge kit places the ball joint back into the neutral position at rest and not at a slight angle, thereby reducing wear and not so much about arm travel.

Indeed - that is right.

[ozbilt]

It has been my understanding that the wedge kit places the ball joint back into the neutral position at rest and not at a slight angle, thereby reducing wear and not so much about arm travel.

Yes it is in the "neutral" position, but the main reason is to stop the ball coming into contact with the edge at extreme travel (droop & bump) therefore pulling the ball out of the socket with catastrophic results (top arm separating from the spindle).