Mustang Tech

I thought it was time to post my car in the projects page.

I bought a 66 vert last year after selling an EH Holden that I'd built from a shell with an LS1 and a VH Commondore with a 308, Ford T5 and big VN brakes. Sold both cars in one weekend. I looked at a lot of cars but I was really drawn to a convertible after seeing a couple while scrutineering at Summernats each year. I liked the 65/66 because I felt it had the best rear vision. Looked at a lot of cars on the net but only found one RHD and it was cream and ugly. Then I found my Shelby coloured blue and white car with scoops and I knew this was the one. Added $8k to my kitty and bought my dream car, 66 Convertible. looked all over Aus and ended up buying a car just up the road from a guy moving to Melbourne that had upgraded to a big block 67 car.

Car was 351W, auto (hated the manual in my last V8) and 9" diff with dual exhausts.



This is the car I bought in August 2016, sold my welders and most of my power tools because I'd bought a car to just drive and not fix up - hah, what a stupid move that was!

Took it to ACT Rego to transfer it to ACT and they said 'go get it engineered as the seat belts and disc brakes aren't factory'. Talked to my engineer and then ended up just getting a pink slip in NSW instead for the time being.

Drove it for a few months, took my sister and brother-in-law for an 11 hour run from Canberra to Maclean but it broke down after 7 hours. Luckily it broke the single alternator support bolt on the up ramp to the servo at Kempsey. Had NRMA top cover so they shouted 2 hotel rooms for the night, taxi hire from Kempsey to the airport at Port Macquarie ($156) to collect a hire car for 7 days ($600) and put Sal on a truck back to Canberra ($900) - all for the sake of a $2 bolt and spacer. When I got to Maclean in the hire car, we went to visit a Mustang friend of my Dad's and that's when I realised my car was missing the very important 351W alternator support bracket.


Fixed the alternator, drove it until Christmas but it started running hot. Put in anew alloy radiator but no improvement. Took it for a 3 hr run to Sydney, thermofan plug cooked and fan stopped, car blew steam and water on Georges road. Drove to hotel, next day got new plug for fan (Spal 26" pulls 22 amps through a plug designed for 15 amps max). Wired in cutout switch to turn fan off when over 60 kmh and drove down the coast to Ulladulah. Car continued to run hot unless thermo was on. Took it back to Canberra. Partici[ated in Summernats, fan finally died, ordered a new one. Ordered a new cam at Summermats, this led to new heads and pulling motor apart.

I want to tidy the paint (good from 2 metres) but have to save the money I've spent on mechanicals this year.

Currently tidying wiring by hiding it under guards, painting engine bay, fitting 322 mm (13 in) brakes with twin spot BF V8 calipers and DIY brackets and Willwood proportioning valve under master cylinder.

I think I know that ugly RHD, cream convertible.

Great post. I really like the stories. The build from the other threads has been great.
I look forward to seeing how it all goes. Lots of posts even if non major changes so we can enjoy the ride with you.

BTW: The engine looks like a perfect performance street engine. Good stuff.

nassi wrote:I think I know that ugly RHD, cream convertible.

whats wrong with RHD cream mustangs

Nothing, I'm sure someone loves it! ;-{ Just not in your face enough for my taste.
Anyway, yours is more white than cream, the one I'm talking about looked like custard!

nassi wrote:I think I know that ugly RHD, cream convertible.

Wasn't in Melb was it..?

Pinto-Pete wrote:

nassi wrote:I think I know that ugly RHD, cream convertible.

Wasn't in Melb was it..?

No, was a cream 66 aussie built/converted by Ford? rhd up near Grafton with a cream interior.
There's a red 65 convertible on carsales that looks nice for $39k with 347/9"/T5


Interestingly, a car mate took my stang for a drive and commented it was a lot stiffer than many of the new European convertibles he had driven. Funny thing is, I just realised last week when checking where to run new fuel and brake lines and 2.5 in exhaust that the convertible stiffening plate is not there! Saves removing it I suppose, I'm welding in chassis rails, tailshaft loop (was going to roll one at work but only $33 from Fleebay) and building an 'up facing convertible strengthening plate (I'll post a pic of the one I found when I get home) to stiffen it up for the torque monster up front. Bought a combo mig/tig this week after selling my big old ones last year because I realise I need to do a lot of light welding at home (I can do the chassis rails on the hoist at work with the Mig there once I pull the carpet).

Anyone installed one of these chassis kits? There's a good article showing details on this page too.Looks like something good to do before a new paint job? I could build something similar for my convertible to stiffen it just before I repainted it next year.

I did not think they sold that kit any longer....hmmm interesting.

The convertible has a lot of strengthening, as compared to the coupe, from the factory.

I think the front is a little weak - aka forward of the torque boxes. I do not think you need to do that much if any thing as you have the majority there.

A mate of mine bought a 65 convertible in the late 70's and put a roof on it his reasoning was it already had all the stiffening required to make a good race car....

Pinto-Pete wrote:

nassi wrote:I think I know that ugly RHD, cream convertible.

Wasn't in Melb was it..?

No I thought he was talking about mine on carsales.

Edz66Vert wrote:Anyone installed one of these chassis kits? There's a good article showing details on this page too.Looks like something good to do before a new paint job? I could build something similar for my convertible to stiffen it just before I repainted it next year.

For worn out (flogged) hardtops & fastbacks. Reality, it adds weight (& usually poor welds) & reduces your bank account. They are crap IMO & I have built a couple of cars over the years.

If your convertible is rust free, then you only need to replace the missing center plate on the underside. Welding in chassis rails & fitting a drive shaft loop is also a waste of time & money on a good convert shell. That missing center plate combined with the upper seat cross member, will do both jobs.

I fitted (was doing R&D for them back in the 90's) the first TCP subframe connectors on a 65 convert. It made no (read zero) difference to the torsional stiffness of the shell.



They are extremely stiff shells.

You already have inner rocker panels & boxed in floor cross member where the seats bolt in. They way the car is put together makes every panel a sheet brace. Very difficult to add anything that makes a difference.

There is an under frame connector on Borgche's 65 fastback, but it came with it & was left on there.

http://www.mustangtech.com.au/Forums/vi ... =5403.html

That's good news, yes seems rust free underneath. I was just told on 'that other forum' that I would twist the car badly if I was lead footed with a 408, good to hear that's not true, I've never noticed any flex and when I crawled under it I couldn't see a lot of areas to improve. That kit I pictured adds 32 kg to the car.

I was thinking of making one of these but not sure how much stiffness it will add if I make it out of 3 mm plate? I don't think it will provide as much rigidity as a flat 3 mm plate bolted in the standard position or an inch down to clear the 2.5 in dual exhaust but it should be close?



Note how he's run his handbrake cable through the convertible box channels, pretty neat.

Park brake running through the box is standard on the later first gen cars.

The center plate is 5mm stock and exhaust pipes fit nicely above it.

Fitting a tailshaft loop because it's a summernats requirement, want to be able to go in the Go-whoa this year.