'70 playing funny games after control valve rebuild

[smh00n]

I rebuilt the control valve on my factory steer '70 and now have an issue.

When I started it, the steering went hard left and stayed there, despite tugging on the wheel.
I then took a bit of tension off the nut on the control valve - recommended tension is 100in/ft less 1/4 turn. I took another 1/4 turn off it and now it goes hard right and won't move.
Even with the wheels centered it went to each side with a lot of force. It is basically difficult to move the wheel with the engine running but I can manually move it back once the engine is off.
It is up on stands at the moment with no weight on the front wheels

Could be 2 issues - I had a lot of movement in the ball stud so I have now tightened up the nut that has the roll pin up real tight; no movement.
Have I tightened this too much?

2nd issue - the idler had too much play in it for rego so I put in the one I have for a Borgeson conversion which I am sure is a manual steer one. It has lifted the drag link up a bit.

So, what's the answer? The tension nut on the control valve or the idler is upsetting the geometry? If it's the valve do I tighten or loosen?
Checklist: full of fluid, belt is tight, no leaks, pretty sure I put the control valve back together right.

If it's the idler does any one have a half decent one that will get me through rego without paying $150?

[hybrid]

The ball stud has to be able to move as that's what directs the fluid around in the valve.

[smh00n]

Ahhh.. but how much? this had about 10-20mm at the wheel.
And 'move'; left to right or front to rear? The brass sleeve was moving sideways in the housing but that was making the whole thing sloppy.

They don't tell you this on the box.

[Nuts]

when correctly assembled, there should be a gap between the ball socket round nut thingy and the socket housing of around 6 to 8 mm. With engine off there should be around 10 mm play in the ball stud. With engine on there should be around 2mm. It needs this 2mm movement to trigger the control valve. Do you have the ram hoses orientated correctly? as this will cause weird shit to happen.. Also the 1/4 turn free of the end nut is critical at first. With the car jacked up, steering straight ahead, start the engine and see if it pulls to one side or the other and adjust the nut a little. If it still pulls hard, I would suggest you have assembled the control valve incorrectly. Hope this helps..

[ozbilt]

Stated that the ball was tightened up because of slop. Jeff picked that up immediately, that is why I never replied.

[smh00n]

Damn. Nothing in the instructions/video/workshop manual mentioned this. I was checking movement with the lump turned off.
If it has that much movement without the engine running then I probably didn't need to build it.

Mustang 1, Newbie 0

[Ausjacko]

I left a shim/washer out of mine when I rebuilt the red one many moons ago. Result was it pulled to one side. Justang provided an exploded view and a washer correctly installed fixed it.

[Shaunp]

Make sure the hoses are not back to front

[smh00n]

All fixed now, left a bit of movement in the ball and sleeve and it's working fine.

Mustang 1, Newbie 1

If you wanted decent data on steering, the Stangerssite had pretty simple explanations for rookies. Now I know what the extra o'rings were for and they have been replaced.
Their kit is also cheaper than the name brands and include the hose seats which mine badly needs.

[ozbilt]

Make sure the hoses are not back to front

You always know when that is done because the steering wheel violently swings to the full extent both ways and will not stop. I saw it once where the guy had his hand inside the steering wheel and sprained his wrist. I was surprised it did not break the wrist. I have been smart enough not to do do that. Yes there are some things in life that I have seen and decided not to try for myself .......