Mustang Tech

We are modifying the way the dash is attached in George's Scarlet.

We have been discussing the idea of making his car more "mechanic friendly" by having the dash removable.

It is actually quite a simple task as the dash is not a structural part of the car.

George had it all ready for me today, dash pad off, instrument cluster out, front carpet out and wiring out of the way (sort of).

My task was wiper arm removal, windshield moulds off and windshield out. Then cut the dash out. I have the dash at Duggo so I can make the strip that will overlap the strip left attached to the firewall and weld it in place. Then make some angle brackets to position where the lower dash meets the A pillar and it will be ready to go back in.

In the meantime, George will be busy routing the wiring where he wants it.

Pictures to follow soon.

I have a bare dash on my 66 shell, so keen to see what you do Kerry.

This sounds like one of the most practical mods to be done on an early Mustang, looking forward to the outcome.

Sounds like a great idea. All these things we should have done originally

I wanted to do this originally at build time but was misguided that its a big mod as its structural and would need reinforcing etc.. so i left it...sounded complicated.. only by chance later in discussions Kerry informed me it was an easy mod and should have done it in the beginning. Oh well.

I have a new console i want to install in which i want to change the location of the handbrake. Kerry is going to help with fabbing brackets for the handbrake which requires pulling seats, carpet etc..

Because im pulling everything out anyway its a good time to do the dash mod and route the wiring more appropriately.

I bought coloured labels 2 years ago ready for this day..

Was going to use the deutsch bulkhead connectors that jeff introduced me to last year but decided against it as it meant more stuffing around. Im using Kerrys hole punches to cleanly cut out some holes for grommets and routing. Much better than trying to shove everything in one hole.. hayyoooo

This may help when im at the stage to dyno my new engine out of the car..and whether its run-in and dynoed using the efi top end or for ease just use carby and switch over when installed in car. We'll see.. not there yet.

Scary part was the windscreen removal...(easy..when you know what youre doing ay Kerry)..

I appreciate Kerry taking this on for me because this will seriously make a big positive difference in soo many ways.

Ill leave it up to him to explain/show the mod.

Ill post before and after pics when i get time to make some progress.

Once this is done and before reassembly.. we will look at making my 315s be more comfy with extra leg room

I am also interested in this mod, as I want to do this to my 67.looking forward to see pictures of the progress. cheers Roger.

gbx78 wrote:Once this is done and before reassembly.. we will look at making my 315s be more comfy with extra leg room

I'm surprised that you have a need for more legroom

Dwayne wrote:

gbx78 wrote:Once this is done and before reassembly.. we will look at making my 315s be more comfy with extra leg room

I'm surprised that you have a need for more legroom

You guys will like this mod too, as nothing will appear different inside .......

First we cut the dash out along the fold where I have made the dotted line (another car pictured here) .......

Then cut the lower angle brackets .....





Now the dash should have fallen on your lap (or head if it was under there).

So on the bench it should look like this .....








More to come when I finally get well enough to be back in the workshop.

Instead of cutting the lower brackets, could you drill out the spot welds and use rivnuts to bolt the dash in at the bottom?

Dwayne wrote:Instead of cutting the lower brackets, could you drill out the spot welds and use rivnuts to bolt the dash in at the bottom?

Yes you could. I cut them because the dash had been converted to RHD (by me) and the re-install was MIG welded. I will be using that remaining double thickness on the pillar to take a 5/16" UNC rivnut (so same type of bolt as a 69 onwards Mustang).

Did you take any other photos George or kerry?

Would it also work to have the 'top join' running across the middle where the speaker is on a 66 instead of up against the firewall? Might be stronger to have the cut where you did it.

Dwayne wrote:Did you take any other photos George or kerry?

Would it also work to have the 'top join' running across the middle where the speaker is on a 66 instead of up against the firewall? Might be stronger to have the cut where you did it.

That would be way harder.

George is due for a write up as we fitted it on Saturday.