Planning your rebuild/restoration
I have laid out here a "basic build plan" for anyone thinking of taking on a restoration/rebuild of a classic Mustang. Actually this would apply to any car. I know you could add heaps to what I have written here, but again, this is a basic plan of attack, enjoy the ride ....
Build plan;
Probably the most important part of building your "dream" car. If you do not have a plan & acting on impulse, then it can quickly turn into a nightmare.
Desired use;
Another really important part of the plan. No use building a highly powered, hard suspension race car when all you really want to do is cruise with the family. Decide what you really want out of the car & be truthful & realistic to yourself.
Do you feel comfortable with left hand drive or would the family feel better with right hand drive?
Engine, gearbox, diff type;
This needs to be settled very early as it then commits you to mods in the underframe as well as suspension.
Wheel & tyre sizing;
Again, you need to decide on this long before body work begins as it has an effect on wheel arches etc.
Interior type (any modifications);
Important at this stage for any welding that needs to happen (like lowering seat platforms, seat belt anchor points).
Strip to bare body shell;
Catalog all parts & list what needs to be done with them (replace, refurbish or rebuild). Good time to start the order process & work out the order of refurbishment.
Measure body shell;
Very important step. Once you have a square & level body shell, all else becomes a lot easier (assembly & wheel alignment are two important areas that come to mind that would be difficult with an out of square body shell).
Paint strip outer panels;
This can be chemical dipping, media blasting (I recommend never soda blast vehicles) or paint stripper & mechanical sanding. Note where this is done in the order of the build. This will uncover what really needs to happen with the body (panel repair or replacement)
Rectify any damage or rust found in body shell.
Mount on rotisserie;
Another important step as it allows the underside to get the attention that it requires for a long life on the road after the build. Things like running a tap through all threads is easier, priming, painting, sealing joins & applying sound deadener are all every easy when the shell is on a rotisserie.
Rectify any further damage or rust found after stripping the loose panels.
Remove shell from rotisserie & fit up all panels.
Make body mods for any changes in drive train or suspension;
This would entail fitting up the car with the drive train & all suspension, including wheels/tyres.
Make complete fitted shell (all panels on) ready for paint shop;
Important to make sure all gaps are correct & would involve partial fitting up of doors & trunk lid. Trial fit all sealing rubbers.
Disassemble & paint body shell.
Have engine & drive train built while car is being painted;
Reason for this is that you do not want an engine or gearbox lying around for a long period of time while waiting for the body & paint work to be finished. Nice to have the engine/gearbox fresh from the re-builders & the warranty still fresh.
Upon return from paint shop …...
Fit fuel & brake lines;
Nice to do on a rotisserie as you are standing beside the shell rather than lying under it. If fitting a stock exhaust, it is a great time to hang it under there.
Fit steering & all suspension (inc diff)
Again, very easy to fit the front suspension on a rotisserie & have the diff/rear spring assembly in place as you lower the shell of the rotisserie. I usually have the fuel tank in place also prior to the diff going in.
Brakes bled;
Once on the ground, finish install of master cylinder & pedal assembly & bleed brakes. Good time to do so before engine is installed as to have the room to check the system & it is easier to rectify any issues.
Fit wiring, instruments, lights (exterior & interior)
Fit interior & glass;
Seats could have been trimmed once body work had been completed. Doors assembled etc
Fit engine & gearbox;
All hooked up, fluids in.
Fit bumpers, grille & outer trim
Build plan;
Probably the most important part of building your "dream" car. If you do not have a plan & acting on impulse, then it can quickly turn into a nightmare.
Desired use;
Another really important part of the plan. No use building a highly powered, hard suspension race car when all you really want to do is cruise with the family. Decide what you really want out of the car & be truthful & realistic to yourself.
Do you feel comfortable with left hand drive or would the family feel better with right hand drive?
Engine, gearbox, diff type;
This needs to be settled very early as it then commits you to mods in the underframe as well as suspension.
Wheel & tyre sizing;
Again, you need to decide on this long before body work begins as it has an effect on wheel arches etc.
Interior type (any modifications);
Important at this stage for any welding that needs to happen (like lowering seat platforms, seat belt anchor points).
Strip to bare body shell;
Catalog all parts & list what needs to be done with them (replace, refurbish or rebuild). Good time to start the order process & work out the order of refurbishment.
Measure body shell;
Very important step. Once you have a square & level body shell, all else becomes a lot easier (assembly & wheel alignment are two important areas that come to mind that would be difficult with an out of square body shell).
Paint strip outer panels;
This can be chemical dipping, media blasting (I recommend never soda blast vehicles) or paint stripper & mechanical sanding. Note where this is done in the order of the build. This will uncover what really needs to happen with the body (panel repair or replacement)
Rectify any damage or rust found in body shell.
Mount on rotisserie;
Another important step as it allows the underside to get the attention that it requires for a long life on the road after the build. Things like running a tap through all threads is easier, priming, painting, sealing joins & applying sound deadener are all every easy when the shell is on a rotisserie.
Rectify any further damage or rust found after stripping the loose panels.
Remove shell from rotisserie & fit up all panels.
Make body mods for any changes in drive train or suspension;
This would entail fitting up the car with the drive train & all suspension, including wheels/tyres.
Make complete fitted shell (all panels on) ready for paint shop;
Important to make sure all gaps are correct & would involve partial fitting up of doors & trunk lid. Trial fit all sealing rubbers.
Disassemble & paint body shell.
Have engine & drive train built while car is being painted;
Reason for this is that you do not want an engine or gearbox lying around for a long period of time while waiting for the body & paint work to be finished. Nice to have the engine/gearbox fresh from the re-builders & the warranty still fresh.
Upon return from paint shop …...
Fit fuel & brake lines;
Nice to do on a rotisserie as you are standing beside the shell rather than lying under it. If fitting a stock exhaust, it is a great time to hang it under there.
Fit steering & all suspension (inc diff)
Again, very easy to fit the front suspension on a rotisserie & have the diff/rear spring assembly in place as you lower the shell of the rotisserie. I usually have the fuel tank in place also prior to the diff going in.
Brakes bled;
Once on the ground, finish install of master cylinder & pedal assembly & bleed brakes. Good time to do so before engine is installed as to have the room to check the system & it is easier to rectify any issues.
Fit wiring, instruments, lights (exterior & interior)
Fit interior & glass;
Seats could have been trimmed once body work had been completed. Doors assembled etc
Fit engine & gearbox;
All hooked up, fluids in.
Fit bumpers, grille & outer trim