Repro Door Hinges Yes or No? And Question re Torque boxes

[Chux]

With the front guard off awaiting finishing of the panel work (on that note I have a section to use for some repairs just arrived today) I thought I could address the hinge drop yesterday PM.

I had the hinge pins and brass bushes sitting there, so top hinge - sweet, bushes go in nice and tight.
Bottom hinge - alas the oblong worn holes sydrome. Now I have a mill and a lathe and could drill them out and turn up some new bronze bushes.....if I wanted to waste half a day, cause I am slow and rusty on them at the moment. Or I could throw $100 into a repro hinge and work on something more interesting like replacing the RH torque box. Repro hinges for a 69/70 okay or better of repairing a real one or sourcing a decent used OEM?

So on that point that I would prefer to be working on something else, I knew the torque box has a dodgy repair on the lower plate - really dodgy as it turned out. Some tin under bog covering a rust hole. Nasty bit of corrosion in the front section of the floor support where it meets the chassis rail. Cut a better hole and had a look inside - looks like some rust in the upper section of the torque box which I could patch or replace the whole thing at once. A really nice rats nest in their as well (nothing like a barn find for finding critters!)

Anyway the question on torque boxes is not about replacing but on supporting the car.

I am doing the work with engine in, have it on chassis stands on the floor support chassis rails behind the torque boxes at present but gather I need the car much more level and evenly supported. I have heard supporting it on the sills but unsure of how to go about this without damaging the sills when it sits on the chassis stands - any words of advice?

[Shaunp]

Pre 67 cars have no torque boxes and 67 only have lh one , I wouldn't worry too ,much They are more for twist when driving

[Nuts]

I've used repro hinges on a 69 and had no issues. I've also repaired them by welding up the pin holes and redrilling.

[ozbilt]

Hinges. Turn up some larger bushings and drill hinge to suit. Repo are ok but not as good as oem. Also the satisfaction of fixing something is very worthwhile.

Torque box. Support car near suspension points. Check that doors open and close as if the car is on the ground. Then you can cut away. If only the bottom plate, you will have no issue at all.

[C5ZZHIPO]

When I owned Capital Classics we sold quite a few repop door hinges. Never had any issues with them.

When is Kerry due back in town ?


Mark

[Chux]

Thanks all,

Probably go to the repro hinge with some assurance they arent crap. It really comes down to the fact I can spend time on repairing rust and until the hinge is done I cannot get the door aligned properly.

Thanks for allaying my concern over chassis support - I read some stuff that had me worried.

Kerry not sure if it will be only the outer on the TB, I will re-position stands on the weekend and remove the bottom plate fully. Until I get a good look at the inner I am not 100%. I did get a nice mouse or rats nest out of the torque box which seems to be quite indicative that the old girl sat for a long time unloved in a barn before getting a mexican restoration.






Bit of work on the floor support/chassis join area which will be a bit of fun with the welder. I have at least got .6mm wire feeding nicely thanks to Kerry's tip about the liner size.

[ozbilt]

Yep. Whole torque box needed. You can also buy that rear rail section if you cannot be bothered making it.

Mark. I am home working as of Friday

[Chux]

Yep. Whole torque box needed. You can also buy that rear rail section if you cannot be bothered making it.

Mark. I am home working as of Friday

Rear rail section looks like a fairly easy fabricate. I have seen those patches and they look like you could make the same thing out of RHS

Appreciate the advice I am getting. Restoration can be a lonely world.

[Mickstang]

Regarding door hinges it has probably come up before but for a refresh here's a link - http://www.mustangsteve.com/hinge.html
I've used these on mine and they seem to be high quality and not difficult to do

[ozbilt]

I am rebuilding a set today. Using the brass bushings I have here (slight oversize). Reality, I cannot see the point of putting anything else other than standard type bushings in. They lasted 40 + years so another 40 will see most of us out.

The cars are never going to be treated like they were in the first 40 - 50 years.